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  #1  
Old 04-02-2017, 08:37 AM
outsider347 outsider347 is offline
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Look for Lisle 39300
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39300-F.../dp/B000CSFBWW

I turn my inserts out of delrin. Turns beautifully and tough as hell.

This rig does everything I need
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  #2  
Old 04-02-2017, 10:51 AM
gashammer gashammer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outsider347 View Post
Look for Lisle 39300
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39300-F.../dp/B000CSFBWW

I turn my inserts out of delrin. Turns beautifully and tough as hell.

This rig does everything I need
Thanks for posting the link. How do you secure the delrin to the tool?
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  #3  
Old 04-02-2017, 03:47 PM
outsider347 outsider347 is offline
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I turn the delrin so it fits into the Lisle tool
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Last edited by outsider347; 04-02-2017 at 03:54 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-02-2017, 05:17 PM
route56wingnut route56wingnut is offline
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My solution to a long lasting version of this is to bore a hole in a bar stock piece not all the way through so as to have the end of the chisel bit fits tight in it. Now weld this to a thin wall piece of tubing either round or square depending on the product you choose to use for your forming . I also weld a nut so to use a set screw to pinch against the insert. Streck Tools also has a similar tool that is made of a composit material that has a hole for a chisel bit in it. I drove the bit out the end and started ruining the panel I was trying to form . After doing this to multiple pieces and having Streck nicely replace at no cost I finally contacted their Tech guy and he asked what I was using for a hammer source and of course proudly stated I was using Snap Ons bad boy These are way too powerful for this process as well as most rivet guns as their piston is too heavy and not needed for flow forming. I looked in the back of the droor for an old cheap muffler gun and that was the answer
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Last edited by route56wingnut; 04-02-2017 at 08:52 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-02-2017, 08:37 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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I agree with all methods, above. It all works to whack metal, one way or another.
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  #6  
Old 04-02-2017, 09:03 PM
Randyz68 Randyz68 is offline
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NCM_0194 1 (2).jpgI just bought the cheap HF chisel set and welded a washer for good measure probably didn't need to since it cut the sharp end off and deburred it ,drilled the UHMW a little undersize and put the bit in the zip gun and drove it in made sure there was over an inch left of UHMW will take awhile to beat thru and cheap enough to start again
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Last edited by route56wingnut; 04-02-2017 at 09:25 PM.
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  #7  
Old 04-02-2017, 10:50 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Hi Ed. I made mine from scraps of 4140 with a shrink fit between the chisel end and the hollow tool end. Warmed them up and tig welded the two bits together. Held up so far.

20160625_145913.jpg
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  #8  
Old 04-02-2017, 11:24 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by route56wingnut View Post
My solution to a long lasting version of this is to bore a hole in a bar stock piece not all the way through so as to have the end of the chisel bit fits tight in it. Now weld this to a thin wall piece of tubing either round or square depending on the product you choose to use for your forming . I also weld a nut so to use a set screw to pinch against the insert. Streck Tools also has a similar tool that is made of a composit material that has a hole for a chisel bit in it. I drove the bit out the end and started ruining the panel I was trying to form . After doing this to multiple pieces and having Streck nicely replace at no cost I finally contacted their Tech guy and he asked what I was using for a hammer source and of course proudly stated I was using Snap Ons bad boy These are way too powerful for this process as well as most rivet guns as their piston is too heavy and not needed for flow forming. I looked in the back of the droor for an old cheap muffler gun and that was the answer
Dan, I've used many different rivet guns for flow forming over the years, and some are indeed too rowdy for some tasks. It depends on the shape you are asking for and the type of alloy you are shoving along.

Sometimes in the flow of a job I will change inserts as the metal work- hardens. Other times I will change guns for a deeper push - changing from a 4x to a 5x. One one job we used 4x for the stretching
nacelle lip skin 2.jpg

and a 12X for the shrinking,
nacelle lip skin 3.jpg

but like most everyone knows, shrinking takes more force than stretching does, on the same material and - 2024 is just plain stubborn when work hardened enough.

I used a panel ripper to do some flow forming - once. That was enough for me.
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  #9  
Old 04-03-2017, 12:28 AM
ed l ed l is offline
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Thank you again guys I appreciate all your in put ed
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  #10  
Old 04-03-2017, 12:48 AM
Stretch Stretch is offline
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Ed... out of the four attempts at making a welded shank, this is my most successful to date as it hasn't broken at the weld yet. And it's had some abuse! It's a cheap hammer headed air chisel shank, to which i welded a homemade machined insert holder. The hammer was a light press-fit into the machined holder prior to welding.
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