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  #61  
Old 10-18-2014, 07:44 AM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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Heavy metal shaping, I love it!
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  #62  
Old 10-18-2014, 09:48 AM
crazy_1_96 crazy_1_96 is offline
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Awesome fab work man it's all so clean and well thought out! My lathe is also free if you ever need one
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  #63  
Old 10-19-2014, 03:16 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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I scored a full set of Eibach SRT lowering springs off eBay for only $100. They were only used for a few months and are like new. Also came with shorter bump stops and upper wishbones with a camber adjustable ball joints.


Can see the difference next to the stock spring. They normally lower a SRT version 1.5" and they are 1" lower than the standard Grand Cherokee. So looking at a combined drop of 2.5" if mine weighed the same.


Can clearly see the difference in the front coils too. They have an extra coil too and are variable rate coils which the stock ones aren't.


Thought I might as well put together the front suspension.


All assembled and went together smoothly.


Rear coils in.


Threw on a wheel and turned it to full lock to make sure there was plenty of clearance to the frame. I will be running taller tyres and wheels with less offset which will give even more clearance. Going to run the same offset all round as the 6.1 Hemi SRT front stock wheels have.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 04:33 AM.
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  #64  
Old 10-19-2014, 05:37 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Poured some lanolin oil down inside and rotated them to coat all the sides before welding them in to prevent rusting.
Nice work cobber!

I did a twelve month trial of rust preventers in my garden on test pieces, with a control. Unfortunately, lanolin allowed the piece to rust after the first shower of rain, which was after 3 days! I had also noticed previously that a dismantled axle in my dry shed, liberally coated with lanolin, had rusted after about 8 weeks In short, as a rust preventer it is useless!

Fish oil lasted 2 weeks before rust appeared - I threw my tin of it in the bin.

The good news is that an Australian product called Penetrol, by the Flood Paint Company, lasted twelve months outside in all weather and one tiny speck of rust appeared; otherwise it had not changed in appearance. It is easy to apply and can be sprayed inside chassis with a tube - guess which one I use exclusively now?

Cheers Charlie
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  #65  
Old 10-19-2014, 06:31 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Myres View Post
Nice work cobber!

I did a twelve month trial of rust preventers in my garden on test pieces, with a control. Unfortunately, lanolin allowed the piece to rust after the first shower of rain, which was after 3 days! I had also noticed previously that a dismantled axle in my dry shed, liberally coated with lanolin, had rusted after about 8 weeks In short, as a rust preventer it is useless!

Fish oil lasted 2 weeks before rust appeared - I threw my tin of it in the bin.

The good news is that an Australian product called Penetrol, by the Flood Paint Company, lasted twelve months outside in all weather and one tiny speck of rust appeared; otherwise it had not changed in appearance. It is easy to apply and can be sprayed inside chassis with a tube - guess which one I use exclusively now?

Cheers Charlie
I have noticed it doesn't like getting wet. Should still help inside the cross member as sealed from outside. Will have to keep an eye out for the Penetrol as never seen it before. What sort of store do you buy yours in?
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  #66  
Old 10-19-2014, 06:43 PM
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No more waiting for the roller pics.

We have touch down.


Wasn't sure if I would reach my goal of getting a roller before the end of the year, but made it without taking any shortcuts.


Swaybar is pretty big at 36 mm solid the same as the SRT version. Should help its road handling a lot which is what this is built for.


I now can compare its height compared to the Grand Cherokee was before strip down. Front dropped an 1.5" with the 2.5" lowering springs and the rear is actually an 1" higher than the stock springs due to the lack of rear weight. No rear doors, hatch, roof, rear seat and glass etc. adds up to quiet a bit and wont be added back. Will drop some more once the tray and cab etc are added though, so hopefully level out.


Just running the donor wheels and tyres for the moment. They wheels are 17x7.5 with 6.25" of back spacing, ET +50.8. Tyres 245/65R17 which measure 29.5" tall. I looking at running some 17x8.5" Centerline Forged Smoothies with ET +32. These will more the tyres outwards 3/4" each side. Tyres will be either 235/80R17, if they will be alright on that wide a rim, or failing that, 245/75R17. Both measure 32" tall.




Posted a walk around video.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 04:36 AM.
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  #67  
Old 10-19-2014, 07:37 PM
SATAUS SATAUS is offline
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Hi Marcus,
Looking bloody fantastic looking foward to the rest of the build.
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  #68  
Old 10-19-2014, 09:10 PM
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Manage a little bit of time back on the project. Wont have as much time this year as have to fit it in with house renovations.
I dragged out the Grand Cherokee firewall and floor from the garage. This will be the basis of the body build and the Willys cowl and sides etc will be welded to this.

]
I have cut the part off that supported the wiper motor at the top of the firewall. Can't mount the wipers there as the windscreen is a good 10" or so back from the firewall on the Willys.


Next thing to decide is how much wider I will make the Willys cab. I want the tyres fully covered by the stock guards as is required by the law here. Don't want to just widen the guards as don't like the look of it and more cab room is much needed too.
The extra width is determined by the difference in axle width, (57" Willys, 66" Grand Cherokee), and any change in wheel offset and tyre size. So have to choose that already.


I also threw on the Grands original dash to see if the width I choose effects the use of that later on if possible. Most of the dash depth will actually be under the cowl and only from the top corner vents forward will be visible, (will cover the speaker grilles). This will improve the looks of it even though I am going for a modern inside and underneath, and old in the body only look.
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Marcus
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 05:38 AM.
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  #69  
Old 10-20-2014, 06:14 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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My headers arrived from the US in only 5 days, which is pretty good going! They cost me $549 USD, ($523 AUD), plus $200 USD, ($190 AUD), for the freight. They are the OBX ones which look like a copy of the Kooks design.


Here is what the factory cast manifold looks like.


Talk about a difference!
The headers are made from 304 polished stainless steel and run 1 7/8" primaries and 3" collectors. Nice 3/8" thick stainless steel flanges too.


Big difference in outlet size!
Was surprised to see a transition spear on such a cheap header too!

]
Here is the main difference between the 05-08 5.7 Hemi and the 6.1 SRT8. The SRT8 has D shaped port versus the square of the 5.7. From 09+ with the VVT, they 5.7 and the 6.1 share the same port shape. Strangely, most 5.7 headers are sold with round ports so don't match up well anyway!


Good thing about the port shape difference is that the D shape equals the height of the 5.7 and there is nothing in the way to impede flow.


Close up of port shape difference. There will be no trouble with the flow coming from the smaller square port into the larger D shaped ones of the header.


Had 10 minutes to spare so quickly threw on one header. Cannot use the stock bolts so either use the SRT8 ones or some M8x30mm with 1.25 pitch flange head bolts. I just picked up some zinc plated one from the local auto parts store. Might switch the stainless ones for final assembly.


Plenty of clearance to the starter and nothing interfered at all.


I'm pleased with the way they look.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 05:48 AM.
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  #70  
Old 10-20-2014, 06:18 PM
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On the right front cylinder head at number 2, there is the EGR port on the 5.7 which is not on the 6.1. It comes out just if front of the exhaust port in the head and then enters the manifold where it makes a sharp 90* turn into the exhaust runner.


Some people just use the 6.1 gasket and leave it blocked off, but you will get a code showing low EGR flow. Also it runs a little cooler they say with it running so I will make sure it is. I placed the stock gasket over the flange so I could mark out where the extra flange bolts needs to be drilled as well as the position of the EGR port.


The extra flange hole needs to be drilled 11 mm like the others in the flange apart from the slotted one shown. A slot needs to be made from the bigger circle so the EGR can flow into the exhaust primary.


The flange is 3/8" thick so used a die grinder to make a slot just over 3/16" deep


I also cut the gasket to give more area for the gas to flow into the primary as it would no longer act to help seal anyway with the gas running on one side of it and would burn some of it away over time.


A good thing about these headers is that all the lower bolt holes are slotted so I just screwed in the bolts part of the way through the gasket. This helps keep it in place and the header was slipped over the bolts and the rest of the bolts screwed in with my fingers. Having a stand to support the other end of the headers makes it easier too when doing it by yourself.


Can see how the EGR port sits in the head. Very tempted to die grind a slot on this side too, but others have reported it works fine without doing that when using the 6.1 stock manifolds on these. Be very easy to just drill through the port into the EGR port, but don't know where the oil and coolant passageways are and hate to drill through one!


The extra forward hole can be seen here that the 6.1 doesn't have. So remember to take that into account when buying your replacement M8x30x1.25 bolts. You will need a total of 17.


I was happy to see that these headers cleared the bell-housing just fine. When you run the 6.1 stock manifolds on these, the bolt hole protrusion shown here needs to be cut off.


Another side done.




Here is a problem you will face on the 5.7 but not the 6.1 as well. The dipstick tube is supported by the first bolt in the header but can't be bolted back due to the difference between the manifold and the flange thickness.


You could run a 6.1 dip stick, which would have a longer support bracket, or make up a spacer like I have done. I decided to use the original manifold bolt and cut a spacer from this solid bar I had.


Bored out the spacer after cutting it to length and used the nut that held the old heat shield on to keep the dipstick tube in place instead.
Also just could have used a longer flanged bolt like the other new ones too.


Bolted on the mid pipes that came with the headers. These now end with factory flanges and in the same position where the stock 6.1 SRT8 cat back system bolt on or after market ones.


These even cleared everything! Seems a shame to cut them up to fit real cats in place! I ordered without cats, $200 cheaper, and they just have these fake ones instead. You can order with their slimline cats but they will throw a code just like nearly every other aftermarket cat on the later models. Only factory cats won't and some sold now by Kooks. So I will have to find someone with good tig skills to weld some in for me as not worth setting up my mig for this little job.


Was able to run all the O2 sensors in place as well after cutting a couple of ties that were holding the plugs to the loom. The furthest one I might buy an extension for. Make sure you label the plugs on the loom side as very easy to plug a after cat sensor in a forward cat one and get a bunch of codes as a result!


The cross over now happens to the rear of the transmission pan instead of in front of it. I'm not so keen on the cat placement under the pan, so when I fit the factory one, will add it further along on the other side.


Got the original front driveshaft lengthened the amount I moved the engine cradle forward, so now can see if it clears everything. Plenty of clearance over the cross over pipe.


Misses the header too so all good to go. Who would have though all this would bolt up to a 5.7, even though for a 6.1, and in a 1948 Willys Truck frame!
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Marcus
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 05:53 AM.
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