#1041
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I like the fender under the cab look as in the last pic.
military crate for a fridge cover would look great. a cover made from canvas draped over items that fit above the rails or bows fixed to the top height of the box would be a temp fix for road trips . Pull the canvas tight and mix up some polyester resin or epoxy resin and pour it over the canvas and work it in to an even film that shows the cloth fibers . When it hardens turnit over and add a couple layers of glass mat and resin . Woven fiberglass cloth would work good on the top layer inplace of a canvas, if you can get some that width and length. then a frame and hinges and electric lifts .
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Don Papenburg |
#1042
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Big Respect for your Energie.
Absolute Limit on Perfection. Extremely complex Project. WOW
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Bernhard |
#1043
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Sorry for all the mockups but have commited now to moving the cross member back 2" to fit either sized spare in underneath. So the mock ups were good enough for me to be confident that something will work out in the end. Here is a couple more.
Removed the labels on the cardboard and the centre stake pocket to see if it improved the appearance of symmetry. I do think the longer back section looks less obvious now? Removing the centre stake pocket would mean bolting through the side to hold the top of the guard on, showing a bolt head on the inside like the Fords and Chevys, rather than to the underside of the stake pocket that the Willys had. Seeing a button head bolt might be a small price to pay though. Cardboard labels gone and the centre stake and steps back in. I think it was a bit off centre before too.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1044
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Don't worry about the length of the platform. I had this truck and the larger half of the platform was behind the axis.
I see you're approaching color.
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Jaroslav |
#1045
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Decided to extend the chassis to take the spare wheel. I had to add what was lost with the 100mm-4" step I put in as well. I turned the heat up to get good penetration. Crossmember welded back in place. I cut out a spare wheel carrier with a cable winch on it. Even though the winch just unbolts, I took the whole cross member to use. It was however setup for an offset wheel so the exhaust could run down one side of it. This setup came from a 2001-2006 Hyundai Santa Fe 4wd. I cut the ends off the cross member, with one side longer than the other, and swapped ends to centre the winch cable. I also recessed the tyre supports an extra 13mm-1/2" to get the wheel up as much as possible. From two Santa Fe's I cut the short tyre supports as well. All welded into place I chose a cable tyre winch over the chain type as the latter rattle the excess chain around. The donor Grand Cherokee had a cable one as well, but the winding point was accessed through the floor and I didn't want that. This is a 235/80R17 tyre which is 31.5" tall. I only left 5mm-3/16" each side to spare to get it in easier. I still need to get a matching Hyundai jack handle, or make one, to operate it. The wrecking yard throws them away so no one can use jacks in the yard. It tucks up nicely out of the way and won't be seen from the side once the frame skirts go on. You can see I have raised it 50mm-2" higher than the top of the chassis. I did this for extra ground clearance when offroading and that the crank handle doesn't have to pass right through the rear cross member. This is also the height of the floor supports for the bed, so it doesn't take any extra space.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1046
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Wow, incredible work!
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Jeff |
#1047
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1048
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Well, the exhaust cannot run out the middle as per the factory centre outlets of the SRT model that the system was made for. I still had the factory single stainless system which is the same diameter, 70mm-2.75", as just one of the new pipes. Re-routing the right side was easy as I only had to cut and flip the exhaust over. I used the left side dogleg instead as it reached over further to where I wanted it. It looks odd sitting out that far at the moment, but the chassis had been narrowed to fit the donor suspension in the right place. The bed will actually be wider than stock and cover the rear muffler and will be behind the frame skirts. So with the muffler on the left placed to match the other side, I just have to get it across. First have to clear the pinion flange, top of the diff and sway bar at full suspension compression. Then turn before hitting the left side upper control arm bracket, under the cross member before going through a hole in the next, miss the shock absorber and then line up with the back of the muffler! I cut the exhaust off just before the last bend and also found a section from the original system that lines up with a hole in the panhard bar support cross member and the muffler. Just have these bends left to complete the system. Using one of the bends from the right side dogleg and the rest of the original system gets me pretty close. I am just using hose clamps to keep things in place while mocking up. I am just going to fuse weld the system together using the tig. 1.6mm-16 gauge lanthanated tungsten to match the same gauge tubing wall thickness. I just draw a straight line using a ruler over the hose clamps before disassembly. Better than small marks as you can make sure the line is still straight after tacking in case it wasn't butted up square. I have used a paint strip disc to clean the old stainless and also the welds. If you don't clean the welds, either mechanically or with acid to pacify them, it will rust there. Just had to meet the two sections together between the cross members. Needed a slight bend. I measured the furthest and narrowest side of the gap and found a bend that would match it. I used hose clamps as a guide to draw my cut lines around making sure they match the smallest and largest measurements. The bend lined up first go using this method so will tack it in place in situ to make sure it all lines up after welding. Have the two hangers in place with two more to go after the mufflers. It worked out better than I expected actually as was going to buy new bends, but actually had to use every little factory bend to clear everything and was the only routing that I could have taken. From this view it looks like I could have just taken a 90* bend after the cross member and then run in front of the tyre before going down the the muffler on the other side. But there just isn't the room as the diff would have hit it at full compression and the panhard cross member is deep on the left side.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1049
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I like your use of the hose clamps to get a good guide line.
I will remember that, thanks for posting it. Neat trick
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Dave Bradbury |
#1050
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I agree! Very clever and a master at reusing the exhaust parts.
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Larry |
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