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  #11  
Old 04-25-2022, 05:02 PM
scrapmetalman scrapmetalman is offline
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Originally Posted by ojh View Post
Are you wheeling with the radius or across it?

sorry but i don't understand the purpose of your question. do you mean i wheel with only one radius of my handmade wheel ?
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  #12  
Old 04-26-2022, 09:04 AM
ojh ojh is offline
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In your photo showing the work piece and written on it 'Wheel' with arrows and 'Tucks' at the edges, are you wheeling lengthwise or across it?
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  #13  
Old 04-26-2022, 11:17 AM
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MP&C MP&C is offline
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Originally Posted by scrapmetalman View Post

as a newbie i can't catch why peter tomasini shrink the upper side and wrey schelin shtrink the bottom.

For the videos from Wray that I have seen, I am continually finding something that is not done as correct as it could be, or conducive to teaching a newbie correct methods.

In one video a patch gets welded into the top of a fender right next to a flange. As one would expect, the heat from welding caused the adjacent part of the flange to shrink and leave a dip in the fender. Multiple attempts to fix/bump that low area result in the waffling of the flange. Straightening out the waffle pulls the fender back down again. Where this is a simple planish of the weld to remove the shrinking, repeated attempts failed as he never did fix the CAUSE. This was an ideal teaching moment, but he never did convey to his audience the concept of planishing a weld to remove the shrinking effects (or show that he grasps the concept himself).

In another he adds a peak to a motorcycle fender and attempts a duck tail at the rear afterward. Any shaping after a "lock" is put into a panel is difficult at best, if not near impossible. This becomes painfully clear as the video progresses. One can go through just about any of his videos and find other blunders that leave question to how accurate and effective the teaching methods are. Metal may be clay, but after a peak has been installed on the complete backbone of a fender, that portion of the clay has been kiln dried.

On the other hand, Peter has been trained by old world craftsmen/coach builders. Regardless of the machine used or whether done by hand, the concepts are the same and things normally start in one area over another because it will be easier and faster... I would suggest you'd be better suited to choose a training video source from someone more properly trained, such as Peter Tommasini, Geoff Moss, Kent White, David Gardiner, etc. Starting off on the wrong foot will add confusion and frustration.
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Last edited by MP&C; 04-26-2022 at 03:27 PM.
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  #14  
Old 04-27-2022, 07:15 AM
vkasiotis vkasiotis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
For the videos from Wray that I have seen, I am continually finding something that is not done as correct as it could be, or conducive to teaching a newbie correct methods.

In one video a patch gets welded into the top of a fender right next to a flange. As one would expect, the heat from welding caused the adjacent part of the flange to shrink and leave a dip in the fender. Multiple attempts to fix/bump that low area result in the waffling of the flange. Straightening out the waffle pulls the fender back down again. Where this is a simple planish of the weld to remove the shrinking, repeated attempts failed as he never did fix the CAUSE. This was an ideal teaching moment, but he never did convey to his audience the concept of planishing a weld to remove the shrinking effects (or show that he grasps the concept himself).

In another he adds a peak to a motorcycle fender and attempts a duck tail at the rear afterward. Any shaping after a "lock" is put into a panel is difficult at best, if not near impossible. This becomes painfully clear as the video progresses. One can go through just about any of his videos and find other blunders that leave question to how accurate and effective the teaching methods are. Metal may be clay, but after a peak has been installed on the complete backbone of a fender, that portion of the clay has been kiln dried.

On the other hand, Peter has been trained by old world craftsmen/coach builders. Regardless of the machine used or whether done by hand, the concepts are the same and things normally start in one area over another because it will be easier and faster... I would suggest you'd be better suited to choose a training video source from someone more properly trained, such as Peter Tommasini, Geoff Moss, Kent White, David Gardiner, etc. Starting off on the wrong foot will add confusion and frustration.
nice point of view. such answers (no matter if i agree or not) make me happy to be part of this forum
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2022, 07:21 AM
vkasiotis vkasiotis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrapmetalman View Post
hello guys, thanks for the welcome.

i've an half wheel arch patch to do. at the bottom on the last inches ( or cm ) there is a radius change.

i've done five times these panels with fails.

i think my mistake at each time is to only shrink at one side, check the shape with my buck at the other, then pass it to the english wheel but it still lose my shape.

so with my DIY e-wheel ( i have only an hard radius maybe a flat anvil is needed ), i think about , on the side that meet the other half of the arch, stretch the lines and at other side shrink them.

as a newbie i can't catch why peter tomasini shrink the upper side and wrey schelin shtrink the bottom.



am i clear ?



Best regards from france.
generally: learning where to shrink or strech is the quintessence of this art( together with cutting imo). you can make one piece with more than one way. understanding the basic principals, answer will come to you depens on your style and understanding. keep in mind that you should work ( imo again) on a ratio % shrinking % streching
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  #16  
Old 05-19-2022, 12:32 PM
sandmanred sandmanred is offline
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I agree with previous advice, making a paper template from a full buck will help you a lot. I do a similar method using tape to cover the buck. Put tape on with the stick side out first and then another layer with the sticky side in so you can peel the entire sheet off the buck. Then make cuts perpendicular to the edges that go deep enough to make the sheet lay flat or almost flat. With the shape you are making the cuts will open up and provide a guide for how much shrinking you need to do on the edges. You can place the tape pattern in the workpiece to judge your progress.





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  #17  
Old 05-30-2022, 03:47 AM
Blackfinger Blackfinger is offline
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Paper works on fairly high crown panels.Ones with subtle curvature and shapes need some guesswork.Reading the shape comes from many failures.Once you start forming the panel you can see where it needs to come down,shrink or stretch..
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