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Old 12-21-2014, 05:12 PM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Near Huntsville, Alabama. Just south of the Tennessee line off I65
Posts: 7,966

Originally Posted by longyard View Post
... I've got to have it back to the owner by May 1.
What year? If 2015, you're going to be pretty sleep deprived by May 1.

If it were my car, I'd extend the patch panels you have for the car by a couple inches, metal finish the welds, and shape them to the correct profiles. Then you can cut out the old crap above that pathetic weld job and weld it in correctly with TIG or gas. Since I'm not really good at tacking with gas/TIG while holding the metal, I'd either have a helper or tack in place with a MIG and TIG the rest of the seam.

The exterior panels are just work. The rest of them may make you lose your hair.
Kerry Pinkerton
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:01 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ulladulla, Australia
Posts: 1,346

Gee Wizz, I hope the owner didn't pay those Bastards to wreck his body and new panels for him..................... But I tell you what, that seems to be the trend now for repair shops, as most of the guys that work or labor for them don't possess the skills needed for correct methods of repairs..... Nowa days its all about the money, and what little work can be done for the maximum amount of profit. BIG PROFIT

But!" Yes Bill", I would agree with Kerry, to save time, since you already have the panels, albeit, you have to do a bit off work in cutting and dressing the existing ones. Just extend them, finish and cut the rubbish out where they need to be fitted.
You have a big job ahead cleaning and removing, let alone fabricating. So by doing that would save a lot of stress.
I would think with a keen helper you may be able to knock it off by May, but its a lot of work.
I'm confident you will bring it back to glory after your handy work.

On another note: I would have to disagree with your comments regarding MIG welding for panels in your vid, as I have migged panels for over 20 years I have found they are easy to metal finish (sure, if you don't know how to weld, then all types is going to be difficult) like the example you have shown. I just think that if that's how they welded with Mig, I would hate to see how there Oxy would of turned out.

EK Holden V8
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Old 12-22-2014, 06:56 PM
Tom Fritz's Avatar
Tom Fritz Tom Fritz is offline
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: E.R. MN.
Posts: 164

1st off I would like to thank you for your books, i have both and like both of them.
I have done cars that bad or worse in the past. Cars so bad mounting them on a rotisserie would of folded them up. I used to work off jack stands but now use a frame table. The ability to have fixtures on the table to hold items securely really makes the job faster and more accurate. I would never go back to the floor again.

I like Kerrys idea of adding on to the replacement panel and then installing that. If the replacement is a good part

Tom Fritz
Customs Classics and Rods
Your 49-51 Ford/Mercury woodie expert
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Old 12-23-2014, 01:24 PM
James Bowler James Bowler is offline
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Richmond Va
Posts: 187

Having to repair someone's bad work is the worst . I would much rather do rust repair or guess what the missing part is .
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Old 12-23-2014, 07:54 PM
john426 john426 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 8


Here is a picture of a '70 Challenger convert on the simple frame table we built. You can see some of the bracing we welded in to this car since we had it on a rotisserie as well.

Chall Frame Table.jpg

forming metal for fun....... Mild to Wild, We Don't Scare Easy

Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-23-2014 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:14 PM
longyard longyard is offline
MetalShaper of the Month September 2013
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,083

I really like your table, but what I like much more is all the space you have in your shop! Mine is a minefield you have to tip-toe through.
Bill Longyard
Winston-Salem, NC
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Old 12-23-2014, 11:52 PM
Steve Hamilton's Avatar
Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
ADMINISTRATOR MetalShaper of the Month Dec. '09 & May '11
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fond du Lac WI.
Posts: 1,962
Default Frame table

hi Bill

I would agree with others that a sturdy table is very highly recommended!

Would you build a body without an accurate sturdy buck?

See if you can find a copy of the factory frame specs. It will give you dimensions at reference points from a horizontal datum line.

A table like John shows can be used as a structure to bolt or weld the car to.
The top of the table should be level both front to rear & side to side, and then can become your datum. Mount the car at the same height off the datum (table top) as the factory.
Make sure the car is centered side to side also. With this completed you can now build some mounts for a laser level so you can shoot a line down each side and at the center line of the car.

You will spend less time doing all of the above, than the time you will waste trying to make things fit.

Just my 2 cents,

Steve Hamilton
Hamilton Classics
Auto Restoration & Metalshaping
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:13 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Jan 2019
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,081

I would like to add my perspective here, and agree with those that recommend some sort of a reference table. From years of experience with chassis and body building I found that not only a flat surface is a great tool, but a torsionally rigid table is even better because I finally figured out that all that unsupported work will distort the body from the welding, if it is not clamped minimally to the table as well. I know this is not what you want to hear because it adds work, but I agree with Steve that it will save time in the long run. It does not have to protrude from out under the entire car (saving shop space), but just enough support under the major under panels will be of great help. The fixture can also be used in subsequent work as well, and mounting on wheels makes it able to be rolled outside the shop when not in use (or to sandblast). Using wide flange I-beam for the mounting surface and tubular supports and braces will make a rather inexpensive and easily welded sufficient structure. It is just my opinion that this is relatively inexpensive approach that is minimal in its time consumption. PM me if you think I might be able to help in any way.
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Old 12-24-2014, 08:26 AM
Maxakarudy Maxakarudy is offline
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Origin of the wheel, UK
Posts: 629

I've bought several out of date crash repair jigs over the years, not a lot of difference in cost between making one your self, you might get brackets too.
The added benefit is they are very accurate and level and you can resell them when you are done and recoupe your costs, so think of it as renting one for a while

No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead!!!!
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Old 12-24-2014, 11:54 AM
ty1295 ty1295 is offline
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 149

Saw this table at PRI show. For the price I felt it was a very fair deal. If you didn't want to spend the time on table and get directly to metal working.

Chances are after your done you could sell it and recover 75% of cost anyways.

Jeffrey Scott
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