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  #11  
Old 06-18-2014, 11:35 AM
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Isn't it also widening the contact point on the lower anvil in relation to where it is contacting the bottom side of the sheet?
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  #12  
Old 06-18-2014, 11:54 AM
Janne Janne is offline
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When you think about it, the sheet, sure "wraps" tighter around the anvil.
So I would think , it does...
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2014, 06:18 PM
longyard longyard is offline
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Originally Posted by Richard K View Post
An interesting video to watch, but not very instructional. There were a number of techniques mentioned such as holding the sides of the panel together that had a very sketchy explanation attached. It would be nice to hear a bit more about certain parts of the operation. I watched Marks power hammer videos and the explanations were also lacking there. Maybe it was different in person.
Hi Richard, I am not actually in the video, I'm just filming what happened. I didn't try to influence the instruction at all, but can tell you that before I began filming Mark did explain to his student how the process works. It's a technique he learned from an English panel beater in England in the 1970s when he began metal shaping. As a reporter/writer,I've tried not to intrude in the action and just let events flow as the craftsman wants them. I agree, more explanation in some of the videos would help.
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  #14  
Old 06-18-2014, 06:20 PM
longyard longyard is offline
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Originally Posted by Janne View Post
Steve,

When you have adjusted pressure on your wheel.It is that certain pressure you just adjusted.When you take a hold of the your panels edges, and press the edges towards floor...you increase the pressure on contact point, cause you get a leverage of the sheet..as you wheel..Think what happens when you put a plastic wrap on top of a ball shape object, and pull the plastic wrap down, the ball wants to come through the plastic wrap..on metal it canīt do that, but the sheet stretches more..via the more pressure applied...

And yes more pressure, faster stretching and faster shape...

This is how I see it...someone can correct, if I am thinking this wrong..
Janne, I also shot a video of Cass Nawrocki doing this, but I haven't previewed it yet. I hope to have it up in the next few days and perhaps he'll explain it in his terms. I think you've given a fair assessment of it, though.
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  #15  
Old 06-19-2014, 12:18 AM
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That would be interesting stuff Bill.

In the near future I also have to wheel a hoot and boot for my Cobra build so I'm happy with all informatie I can get. Geoff instructs you that the sides are where the shape is. Pulling down puts more pressure in icw bending the panel. Care should be taken not to frustrate the hell out of the panel so you don't need a ton of washovers to relax the panel again. It would be hard IMHO to get a mirror finish. Not that a mirror finish is that important but it will demonstrate that the craftsman did creep up to the shape and that will take some time. I'm amazed how fast he made this panel.

I always try to curve or bend the sides of a panel towards the final arrangement as much as possible without fighting it. Some shapes can demand for stronger action like using the curling effect to get the panel to better match to the anvil.

IMHO things like 'braking the grean', prebending the panel, pre shrinking the edges, keeping the side to the desired form are all to pursuade the panel to move better or faster to the desired shape. Or to keep it from flopping to the wrong side and make larger panels a bit handlable/stiffer.

In the booklet 'the key to metal bumping' they show a wire being bend over the point it won't completely come back from. If you bend the line just before this point just a little bit has to be added to bend it permenantly. The same with this trying to fold it technique. The panel is persuaded into the desired shape and then the wheel passes over this area and it will be more effective this way.

I ones stoot in front of 6 Ace Bristols on a row on the Essen Classica motorshow. And the hoods were al curved differently

So the main lesson to be learned here is never to park your car next to the same one if they are pre 1965

Just my 2 cents. Just my view on this matter but I can be wrong. I still haven't made this hood myself.

Greetings,

Frank
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  #16  
Old 06-19-2014, 05:55 AM
KAD KAD is offline
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Bill did you see the start of the process and if he started adding shape by shrinking all four corners?

Some of the reflections look like perhaps a kick shrinker was used to "pinch" in the corners first.


Thanks for posting
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  #17  
Old 06-19-2014, 06:33 AM
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Is it possible that Mark Gerish could be asked to provide some more information? Seems he might have the best answer.

Or how about Shane at Baleigh? they seem to have a strong connection.
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  #18  
Old 06-19-2014, 10:02 AM
longyard longyard is offline
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Originally Posted by KAD View Post
Bill did you see the start of the process and if he started adding shape by shrinking all four corners?

Some of the reflections look like perhaps a kick shrinker was used to "pinch" in the corners first.


Thanks for posting
Hi Kirk,
No, he didn't use a kick shrinker to start. In fact, he didn't use a shrinker at all on the hood.
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2014, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard K View Post
Is it possible that Mark Gerish could be asked to provide some more information? Seems he might have the best answer.

Or how about Shane at Baleigh? they seem to have a strong connection.
Hi Richard,
You can contact Mark at: www.aametalshaping.com . He's very helpful with information.
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  #20  
Old 06-19-2014, 03:45 PM
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I was just wondering about how much "more" area pressed between the anvils is affected when pushing the panel inwards from the sides. Wont a lower anvil with slightly more curvature act the same?

It also seems that by pushing the panel in like that makes for unstable wheeling conditions which resulted in the skewed potato chip look.

Once the 'frame' has been cut off, how much does the inner panel relaxes and become flatter or does it keeps its shape exactly?
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