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  #11  
Old 07-09-2021, 01:37 PM
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Joe Hartson Joe Hartson is offline
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A lot depends on the aluminum alloy he is using. I am assuming that 1000 series could be used for what he is doing since it is a proto type for the extrusion.

On thicker metal I have made a plate that will have a recess for the metal to fit into. The plate is used so the magnet will hold the metal down when the magnet is powered. Some time I also put a piece of wood under the sheet metal cover under the magnet and use some C-clamps to have extra holding force. Be careful when you do this so you don't bend the sheet metal cover.

There is metal bar behind the round stock that you bend the radius against. I built the radius piece to bend stainless steel counter tops and it worked very well. I have used it for many other thing of different radius by changing the round bar diameter because it just bolts on to the adjustable holders.

The problem with most questions asking for help not enough information is given in the question and the new people don't respond when an suggestion is given. This is why I don't usually make suggestion anymore. Sometimes I delete my suggestion when no response is forthcoming.
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Old 07-10-2021, 02:04 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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I think Joe's method would work very well.

Might I further suggest that the aluminium be annealed before bending to help it submit to the form more easily, thereby creating much less spring-back.

Annealing is easily done in most aluminium alloys by heating the area to be bent to a suitable temperature by means of a flame torch. Marking the area to be heated with a Sharpie marker and heating that area until the markings vanish is a good, reliable method to know the metal has become sufficiently hot to accomplish the desired annealing.
Please let us know how you come along....
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  #13  
Old 07-10-2021, 09:35 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metal manny View Post
I think Joe's method would work very well.

Might I further suggest that the aluminium be annealed before bending to help it submit to the form more easily, thereby creating much less spring-back.

Annealing is easily done in most aluminium alloys by heating the area to be bent to a suitable temperature by means of a flame torch. Marking the area to be heated with a Sharpie marker and heating that area until the markings vanish is a good, reliable method to know the metal has become sufficiently hot to accomplish the desired annealing.
Please let us know how you come along....

"appropriate temperature" for annealing aluminum ....


1100, 1150, 3003, 3005 = 750F (bar soap scorches, soft pine chars, light acet. soot goes away in the O/A flame, 750F Temp. Crayon Melts, dye-chem (Dykem) spray blue goes away under O/A flame -useful for perforated sheet...


5052, 5005 = 650F = above methods too hot and the excessive heat can ruin the surface/ gray color, rubbly surface, cracking, melting etc ..., but 650 Temp crayon melts.


H-frame press + round hard plastic or steel press upper die + big sandbag or two spaced-apart parallel wood blocks for lower die gets this done without much ruckus/tumult/chagrin.
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  #14  
Old 07-10-2021, 06:43 PM
fciron fciron is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reno View Post
The first thing I thought of is a Gene Winfield pipe anvil.
My first thought was similar. Shoot, doesn't even need to be three pipes, just one piece of pipe with a strip to brace against.
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  #15  
Old 07-13-2021, 12:53 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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What is quite amazing about this whole subject is that the original poster (in only his second post) who threw out an "SOS" for his shaping conundrum has subsequently vanished and shown a complete lack of interest in engaging with the members who took time to try and help him out???
Anyway, thanks for all you replies - I'm still learning and loving the expert input.
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  #16  
Old 07-13-2021, 01:01 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
"appropriate temperature" for annealing aluminum ....


1100, 1150, 3003, 3005 = 750F (bar soap scorches, soft pine chars, light acet. soot goes away in the O/A flame, 750F Temp. Crayon Melts, dye-chem (Dykem) spray blue goes away under O/A flame -useful for perforated sheet...


5052, 5005 = 650F = above methods too hot and the excessive heat can ruin the surface/ gray color, rubbly surface, cracking, melting etc ..., but 650 Temp crayon melts.


H-frame press + round hard plastic or steel press upper die + big sandbag or two spaced-apart parallel wood blocks for lower die gets this done without much ruckus/tumult/chagrin.



Thanks Kent. I always "copy" your info (alloys, techniques, etc) to the clipboard and save it in my metalworking folder for the times when I will need it. Much appreciated
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