#21
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Station buck thoughts
So it came time to start the CAD part of the buck making project. To make sure I wasn't giving confusing or ambiguous direction to Dan (the guy doing the CAD work), I decided to write down my thoughts/needs. I've found the process of putting words on paper (so to speak) forces me to think things through and verbalize what's going on in my head. Here's what I came up with:
Here's a graphic showing buck modules in different colors:
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#22
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Station buck progress
Here's some progress pics of the Miura buck as it's being designed in CAD:
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#23
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Station buck progress
Progress pic for 3D modeling of station buck.
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#24
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mdf or plywood can be cut out with a cnc router. many hobbyists have them (including me) and that would be a lot cheaper than a water jet or laser. Accuracy is more than good enough for a buck.
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Scott in Montreal |
#25
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Joel, if you're going to use MDF use 3/4" minimum. The size of the panels you'll need are too large for 1/2". Anywhere you're going to screw parts together, insert and glue wood dowels. MDF does not like wood screws.
In the fist first picture below, notice that each station has a printout bonded to it that has the profile of numerous stations printed on it. Meaning that only one or two sheets had to be designed to include station profiles for the whole car. Notice also that you don't see the printouts glued to the right side of the stations. They are probably on the back side to give an exact mirror image. You could also have your inner structures printed on the same sheets, maybe in red or a different color than the outer profiles. Then cut when needed. The second picture is the Caddy buck I made recently. The edge that the sheet metal will touch. I cut a 45 degree bevel on each side which left only about 1/4" of material that will contact the sheet metal. No need to fair with grinders and sanders. The last picture is the spine of the same fender buck . Notice that I had to bolt a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron on to stabilize it. The spine is about 7 feet long and just in a couple days of setting on the stand, it started to sag. MDF is pretty stable but it will warp if large spans aren't reinforced. In long smooth areas I use about 12 to 16 inch spacing. Less in areas with more complex shapes. I was looking at the CGI of your buck design and it appears to have far too many stations. You will be able to see or feel highs and lows between much larger spacings so I think some of the stations on your last drawing aren't needed. As for using the buck on the ground and on the chassis, if you locate your "windows" carefully to outline the obstructions on the chassis, you might be able to trim the buck quick and easy when you're ready to set it on the chassis by simply cutting a few window frames out. Lifting it without breaking it will probably be one of the major challenges in this operation. Good luck, I'll be watching your progress. 25ed1c097ae9e9c6578a9883ba3da5fe.jpg 535.jpg 543.jpg
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 01-16-2019 at 09:10 PM. |
#26
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Very useful post Jack!
For those that don't like large amounts of wood dust – who does? – when the weather allows, do it outside. I sometimes weld and oxy-cut outside when the season is right, to reduce the inside fire-risk, Cheers Charlie
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Why does dust stick to everything, but nothing sticks to dust? |
#27
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Thanks for the suggestion Scott. I'm investigating the CNC router option now.
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#28
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Quote:
Thanks for all the helpful info in your post!!
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#29
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Here are the final 3D designs for the Miura station buck:
All the stations lay out on 13, 4' by 8' plywood sheets. Here's an example: I'm now investigating the best, cost effective method to have these CNC cut. Once cut, the pieces are suppose to slide together where they are notched. This sounds great in theory, we'll see how well this works in practice. For some of the body openings, I'm planning to have buck mounted hammer forms for turning the flanges. For example, grill, headlight, and hood vent openings. I'm hoping to have these hammer forms shaped on a CNC router from blocks of glued together MDF. We'll see how practical this is. More updates to come as I figure this puzzle out
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#30
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Joel,
I just found this thread after somebody mentioned it in your C5GTO thread. How do you have the time for all these awesome projects? I have a 5' x 8' capacity CNC router and would be willing to help you in any way possible if needed. I realize Cleveland Ohio is quite a ways from CA but just wanted to make the offer.
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Eric Singleton |
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