#1
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Best way to put joggle in cowl for door opening
I am working on the door openings for my Kurtis inspired project. I need to joggle the side of the cowl so the doors fist flush. I made tooling for my pullmax to make a .250" joggle. I am afraid that if I joggle the cowl, it will really distort it a lot. Its 1100 aluminum which ill will anneal first if I try it this way
My next thought was to make the joggle on a separate piece then weld it in. maybe leave 1" material on the body side to weld (?) (see pic 2 for test piece) My last idea was to flange the cowl, then weld the rest of the joggle in. Any ideas, tips, etc? Kurtis cowl 1.jpg Kurtis cowl 2.JPG THANKS Sean
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Sean Last edited by galooph; 06-15-2020 at 01:58 AM. |
#2
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One of Peter Tommissini's videos explains how to do just that, he shows how to do it from the 'B' pillar end but the technique is the same, Disc #7 if I recall right.
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oj higgins |
#3
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One flange at a time.
Id flip it to 90, slowly stretching that inside corner as I turned it. Once I got the flange at 90, I would stop, adjust and correct damage on the main panel if any happened. Once the flange is at 90 and everything is correct and tension free, tip the second return. Any damage that occurs at that point is PURELY a result of the second flange and can be corrected.
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Steve |
#4
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While I'm 100% sure that it can be done in one piece while the panel is in arrangement. For me, it would be much easier to create the joggle and weld it into the panel.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#5
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Thanks Guys -
Steve - i thought of that after i posted. I might run it through tipping wheel to get it started
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Sean |
#6
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Problem with running it through the tipping wheel or other method that creates a sharp line, if you need to do any adjustment to the line it is very hard to move a sharp bended line.
Peter Tommasini covers this in his DVD's. He blocks out the line use a blocking hammer then refines the line with a hammer and dolly. He covers it in DVD's 7, 8 and 9.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#7
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Thanks Chris - Great point. i don't have Peters videos, but i do have David Gardner's (Excellent BTW) David shows how to do everything by hand. Ill have to re-watch.....
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Sean |
#8
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Hi Sean,
I think Steve is right on - above. Brake/turn/flange the first 90 all the way, first, and get that decent. THEN bring the return/2nd flange along as a second operation. 1100 alloy is the softest of all aluminums, so it will form over the edge very easily with a hard wood block and a wood slapper. You can also clamp the edge in a wood sandwich and strike the edge over with probably no annealing - until you get into the area above the door, and that will need shrinking as it goes over... and yo can anneal that to help you get used to hand shrinking the ruffles. (I assume you have tried your various possible methods on scrap, first? It's pretty dang "confident" to experiment a method on the job, at first go. ) Practice "gathering" your ruffles as you turn the flange over an outside curve .... as the amount of metal you have is approaching an inch, which is a lot to work for a first go. Practicing on half-inch flanges is good practice, then go to 3/4 wide. As confidence builds the 1 inch will be a job, but doable for you ... remembering that you have both door openings to do and it's probably best to have them both similar in quality, and not the first one being "wounded" by overworking and the other showing nice improvement by practice. Carstens J2.jpg I think you will be very surprised at how it goes, once you get used to the few moves you need to master. It will boost your confidence a lot.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 06-15-2020 at 01:25 PM. |
#9
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Thanks Kent - Thanks for the pic - the door opening shape looks like my car.
i did the trunk opening a while ago and it went well, though took a long time I should have annealed the tighter areas sooner. I will definitely do some practice pieces. I need to remake the left side of the cowl, so ill practice on that one. Ill use my TinMan slappers and Meco torch, of course! Jcd2um4wzcQ94Ppdofv4qwTIIpdh16DDw4sltUV7J1xQk9zrAdg30zmBwO-zMT1OxN5sNxha_Bc13Pjvxo6n7lJZ8JPZCl8i.jpg
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Sean Last edited by galooph; 06-16-2020 at 02:41 AM. |
#10
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Quote:
Keep going like you are and you will do Kurtis Kraft proud. Yeehaw!
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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