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  #1711  
Old 02-23-2021, 10:27 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I saw theirs. I started mine before they did, but they finished before me. They also used a CTS as a donor car but they used the whole CTS unibody. That's why they had to keep the sedan posts. They must have stretched the unibody up front because the 49 is 12" longer wheelbase and it's all up front.
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  #1712  
Old 02-24-2021, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
When I was making the carbon fiber engine side closure panels, I didn't have much time to get detailed pictures so I'll go into detail here. When I made those, I was using a mold that was removed after the panels cured. I laid up three layers of carbon fiber cloth and two separate applications of resin. Those are stand alone panels. Their strength is built in.



These cowl panels will remain in their "molds". The ABS and carbon fiber will bond together as a unit so I won't need to use multiple layers of cloth.




I think I mentioned last time that this method is strictly for cosmetic pieces. There are completely different procedures for structural c/f parts that require either pressurized injection molds or vacuum molding and very carefully measured quantities of resin.
The finished ABS panel below has been wiped down with acetone to remove any mold release agents that might be left behind, then lightly sanded rough with 80# on a DA. I masked off the area with the vent/drain holes and it's ready.



Attachment 58848


I laid the panel over some c/f cloth and taped off the cut lines leaving plenty of excess material along the edges. Be very careful handling the cloth. It's a loose weave and if it snags, it will pull the strands out of alignment. Cut the cloth with scissors down the middle of the tape and leave the tape on both the piece you're using and the roll so they won't unravel.


Attachment 58849


Next, carefully lay the C/F cloth over the panel and tuck in or relief cut where needed.


Attachment 58850


Epoxy resin is preferred for C/F, it has a longer work time than polyester resin typically used for fiberglass. Depending on temperature, sunlight (UV), and humidity polyester resin can start kicking in just a few minutes. With epoxy resin you have anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour. C/F doesn't saturate quite as readily as fiberglass, so the extra time to work with a spreader and brush helps.
Pictured below are two separate kits of epoxy resin. The smaller 16 fl oz kit was left over from the side panel work. The 64 fl oz kit is fresh. Two different brands and sizes but the same product.


If you're looking to buy this stuff beware that there are a few unscrupulous characters out there selling it by the ounce (weight). Be sure the label says fluid ounces (fl oz). Also, prices vary wildly. You should be able to get a 64 fl oz kit (2 - 32fl oz bottles) for around $40 USD. About 65 cents per ounce.


Attachment 58851


You'll need: 2K epoxy resin kit, mixing cup (the resin doesn't eat up these plastic cups), a flat roller(sqeezes out bubbles and voids), a 90 degree corner roller, brush and spreader, and some acetone for clean up. Lacquer thinner will work also.


Measure accurately and mix thoroughly. Follow the directions that come with the resin. Proportion is vital. If you under catalyze, it won't cure and you'll have an unsalvageable mess on your hands and have to scrap it and start over.



Attachment 58852


Pour it on, spread it out, work the bubbles out and let it cure overnight. Clean up is easy with acetone.
Tomorrow I'll trim the edges and sand lightly before putting on another coat of resin. If this were a flat part like the side panels, I would just level the part on the bench and pour the resin on and let gravity do the rest. Since these panels are all different shapes, I'll have to brush on a few layers letting them kick one layer at a time.


Attachment 58853
http://www.uscomposites.com/

Just FYI, For those looking for excellent fiberglass and epoxy supplies at great prices check out US Composites. This place is well known for having "the good stuff". Their polyester resins are insanely more pungent than the cheap "bondo brand stuff" but is leaps and bounds better. Their prices are good too. I have been using their epoxy and polyester resins for years and it is definitely not the typical resell crap that you find elsewhere. The resins wet out better and give far better working time than the cheap stuff. You actually end up saving money over the cheap stuff because there is less waste. Their products are like getting undiluted product from the source instead of rebranded and old stock stuff. Normal cheap resin stinks but Whoa, this stuff is absolutely STANK!

Disclaimer- I do not work for them nor am I any type of affiliate of this company. I purchase their stuff with my own hard earned bucks. I simply wanted to share this because some people do not even know that there is a huge difference in the quality of resins. When this was shared with me, it was a game changer for sure.
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Last edited by NDM; 02-24-2021 at 02:33 PM.
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  #1713  
Old 02-24-2021, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brisner View Post
jack your skill set is right on par with the ring bros. what makes your build so impressive is u are a one man show working out of your garage where as they are pro builders with abig shop.your caddy is just as amazing theirs
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Wholeheartedly agree!!
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  #1714  
Old 02-24-2021, 11:31 PM
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The two cowl panels are finished, fit up, and wipers installed and tested. Everything clears the wiper linkage and seals up on the cabin air filter box. I put a weather seal along the front edge of the panels that seal against the hood liner so I'm not drawing air into the interior from the engine area. Only from outside air.


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You can see in the dust on the windshield that the range of the wipers is about 90 degrees from parked to full vertical. The wiper arms clear the back edge of the hood when it's closed so this is finished. I lucked out with the range of travel on the wipers, but it doesn't always happen that way.


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If you ever need to modify the range of motion on a wiper assembly it's not too difficult. There's some trial and error involved, or if you're a geometry major you could figure it out on paper.
There are two different types of late model wiper transmissions. One version has a mechanism built into the motor housing that makes the output shaft rotate 180 degrees then reverse and go back 180 degrees.


Most are like this one, but both types can be modified this way. The output shaft of the motor is the drive shaft. Direct drive. The lever attached to it (red arrows) continues to rotate 360 degrees till shut off. The linkage connects to levers on the wiper arm shafts. The wiper arm shafts move back and forth. How far they travel depends on the ratio of total movement of the pivot ball on the motor lever compared to the length of the lever on the wiper arm shafts.



So... If you need to reduce the amount of wiper arm travel you would SHORTEN the length of the motor lever (Red arrows) which would reduce the total distance that the pivot ball on the motor travels.



If you need to increase the amount of wiper arm travel you would LENGTHEN the motor lever which would increase the total distance that the pivot ball on the motor travels.


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This is the last carbon fiber panel for the engine room. It goes over the core support and radiator. I already had this panel made out of ABS so I just laminated it like the cowl panels.


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 02-24-2021 at 11:35 PM.
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  #1715  
Old 02-25-2021, 09:41 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Jack
Love the carbon fiber look
Thanks for all the educational explanations

Looks like you will be ready to go for a ride this summer!

Steve
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  #1716  
Old 02-26-2021, 12:30 AM
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I'm trying.
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  #1717  
Old 02-26-2021, 04:15 AM
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They came out very nicely Jack.
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  #1718  
Old 02-26-2021, 12:36 PM
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I picked up my bumper and grill surround from chrome plating this morning. They did a great job. These bumper parts are 65 years old and the grill surround is 72 years old. Worn, damaged, rusted, pitted and heavily modified. They came back looking better than new
I think the 49 parts might have just been nickel plated originally. Not sure when they started using chrome.


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  #1719  
Old 02-26-2021, 03:54 PM
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The plating, like the rest of the car,looks terrific. Who is your plater of choice?
Tom
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  #1720  
Old 02-26-2021, 08:58 PM
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I use We R Chrome Plating mainly because they're local (Cleveland) and they've been around for a loooong time. I've been going there for years. Mostly when I was building choppers. Not so much need for chrome with race cars.
They do great work and keep their prices fair. They're very familiar with what show and custom builders are looking for.



https://werchromeplating.com/
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