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Old 03-28-2016, 07:28 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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I use worn out/damaged segmented vitrified diamond saw wheels to dress my green wheels as needed for the carbide chisels I use all day in studio. The freshly dressed wheels produce a much cleaner cutting edge on the carbide, especially when I'm doing finer detail. Never had one of the nice diamond dressers.

Cheap crap similar blades from Lowes/HomeDepotcan that I would never use on my stones serve the same purpose to dress wheels when necessary. Just use the bonded or vitrified, not the electroplated or vacuum brazed ones for this purpose.

I have not added a diamond wheel to sharpen carbide partly because of the the water issue, not wanting to introduce water/vapor into my dust collector. Keeping the diamond cool will extend life significantly. Most of the vitrified blades I use to dress my wheels have been overheated when sawing stone, which can happen quickly when diamonds get thin especially in a deep cut. You'll know when they've been overheated because they get grabby and/or kick kick, no matter what you're grinding or cutting. Keep them cool, going slow or using water, and the diamonds last much longer.
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:23 PM
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Jere Jere is offline
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WOW this is great info. I noticed that 224 people have read this and I hope a few got some really great advise/answers from the replies.

I thank you all for your help with which I thought would be a simple question.

If there is more I should know, please elaborate. THANKS

Jere
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:19 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Something I don't know and another reason I've not made the switch to diamond wheels-

The most common estimates I have seen advertised is that properly treated diamond wheels last approx 10X as long as green wheels. I would be curious to know what you find, Jere or from others long familiar with green wheels that made the switch to diamonds.
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Old 03-29-2016, 11:23 AM
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That is why I am getting the diamond wheel. The one on my bench grinder is about 3" in dia. and will soon be hitting the arbor. I bought a new one the last time I was at the welding supply store and after I got back to the shop I looked at the tool grinder and thought, why not get a diamond wheel and save buying green wheels so often.

How are you guys introducing water to the wheels on your grinders? Mine came with a single cup with a flexible hose on it. You have to move it from side to side depending on which side of the stone you are using. It's a joke. There must be something better.

Jere
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:38 PM
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Unfortunately, my machines were built specific, so they had water channels machined right in them to introduce coolant to the entire surface of the wheel, so I cannot help you with delivery system ideas. Though the segmented flexible plastic style air/fluid hoses do have splitters and control valves available for all diameters.

I did have a traditional dust control to pick up the mist. Cliffrod is correct about introducing moisture in his collector. I had access hatches, and a monthly routine of cleaning out the material build up in the pipe. It wasn't a lot of fun, but it beat the alternative of of having to choose between changing masks 2-3 times a day or breathing the crud that got into the air.
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Old 03-29-2016, 08:40 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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I talked with KAD at RockHillWill's Redneck Roundup about green wheels vs diamond wheels, water drip and dust collectors as well. I grind on the edge of the wheel, not on the side, so water would be easier to manage.

Still, the silica dust keeps areas of my ductwork interior and my big torit polished to bare steel so I am reluctant to add moisture to the mix both regarding rust and clumping of the dust that might wreck my suction even more. If I do add a diamond set-up with water drip, it will have to be via a different grinder and separate suction system if not just using extra water to let it help manage the dust. My studio is hardly a clean room like most machine shops....

the versatility of being able to dress a green wheel at will to whatever shape I need is probably my biggest point of concern vs a dedicated profile on a diamond wheel. While the 1" wide wheel handles most of my tools, I use a knife edge on the 3/16 thick green wheel to dress 4 & 9 point bushing tools and ripper chisels and expect that sharp edge of diamonds would fatigue quickly, leaving me stuck. I've yet to get a good answer about durability in such applications and not interested in spending $100-$200 to see a diamond wheel fail in the same or less time than a $20 green wheel lasts....
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