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#1
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Metal finishing with limited or no access to back of panel
Would like to know what some of you do when you have limited or no access to the back of a panel. Is the only option to cut out a section for access? In the past this is what I have done but I'm curious if some of you have other ways. I will be working on a very nice nearly rust free 71 240Z soon and it has a few areas that I need access to the backside too but I hate the idea of cutting up the cherry inner structure to gain the access to backside of the panel. Any thoughts, tips, ideas, would be most appreciated.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
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It all depends on what you call "limited". In some cases, long thin spoons, flat iron, specially shaped long reach dollies, thin hammers have helped out in situations like the one you are speaking of. Other times, changing the method of repair or welding method may help limit distortion to a point where you don't feel bad putting a little mud on it. Lead works wonders in these situations as well. I know the guys that do the PDR are known to drill holes for their special picks to reach into, this might be a good option for you.
Every situation is different, please share your methods, thoughts, and successes! Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
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Had a '72 Cheyenne Fleetside with a nice sideswipe down the length of the bed side. Customer asked for "metal finished" complete - so I got out my LencoSpot, hooked up the weld-on slidehammer attachment (with the weld-on-bump bump bump - twist off washers.) Started at one end and walked it out, slick as could be, from only one side - and a leetle beet of body solder on 10sq inches I could not persuade to get file-finished.
Whole truck looked pretty fine when I got done, actually .... Other than that, I solder loops of heavy copper wire on and prise on those. Sometimes I get lucky....
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#4
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look at this, i work normal work with this and it works nearly perfekt,....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLIGISmDSng ernst
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Just Ernst |
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Chris, it sounds as if you may be tackling a rocker repair?? If it is such a part, I would suggest complete removal and duplicating the part so some spot / plug welds should be able to reinstall per OEM without a weld seam passing through the crown that is going to pull a valley..
Another option would be to use panel details, if available, to help in negating any shrinking effects... Here's a weld seam I did on a lift gate repair: Quote:
Where such a panel feature is rare, try to use what the panel does offer, as well as welding procedures that will all help to minimize any shrink distortion. A non-stop weld using the TIG may help to control distortion, or a seam adjacent to a panel bead or crease. Just be far enough away from the panel detail that your HAZ doesn't cross or touch the crease and risk moving/distorting the crease line..
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
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I'm curious as to opinions here of the Lenco dent puller vs stud welders. Before Kent's post I didn't even know that Lenco made a dent puller attachment for their spot welder, but it looks like it's a whole lot faster than using a stud welder:
https://youtu.be/JIWFQ2P19cQ (The video shows a Snap-on unit but I'm pretty sure it's a rebranded Lenco). To remove the puller you just need to twist the tool, so this guy manages lots of pulls in a very short amount of time.
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Joe |
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I have that same model Snap On machine, and it works just like they show, or there is a shrinking tip..
As it refers to the OP's question, AFAIK Chris works in the collision industry and should be fluent in the operation of and have all the dent pullers that he needs.. I read it as he needs to metal finish after performing a weld operation, not pulling dents. Perhaps he could clarify for us...
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
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Hey guys, thanks for the responses. You are correct Robert more of a what to do after welding than pulling a dent. I actually have a Lenco and a H&S Unispotter so that's not an issue. Specifically the car had beltline moldings attached to it when new at the dealership.(right about in the middle of the body) and all of those will have to be removed and the holes welded and on the front of one 1/4 panel the molding was ripped off which left stretched holes. Also one of the 1/4 panels has four little pinholes (in one spot)right on the wheel arch/return. Other than that the quarter is nearly perfect. No surface rust to be found anywhere on the car other than where the weatherstripping rotted enough to let water drian in and end up on the floor pan (common with these cars) What complicates this is that I have been asked by the owner to not use any body filler if at all possible. He wants this to be built to a very high level, which is an excellent opportunity for me. So the only option I see for repair would be to cut access holes so I can either tig or gas weld the areas (the quarter panel area is solid save for those pinholes) and then planish them out. No way I would butcher that 1/4 with one of the commercially available patch panels and it in no way needs that. If I had access I could gas weld it and planish it no problem. I just hate the idea of cutting up such a clean car. Hope that makes sense.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) Last edited by Chris_Hamilton; 04-04-2017 at 05:43 PM. |
#10
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Quote:
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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