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Old 06-13-2021, 11:51 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Default Hammer face repairs

Hi Group,

I got a couple of old sheet metal hammers at a garage sale yesterday and the faces have been used to drive nails and general abuse as a hammer not for sheet metal is my guess.
To resurface the faces, those of you that have done this, what is the preferred method and do you try to keep a certain profile of what is there or make it what you see it as.

These are the hammers in question $5 ea. I've got a 2x72 belt sander, I have grinders, flap wheels, sand paper, and of course hand files, but the heads seem to be a bit hardened as the file doesn't do much at first try.

Look forward to any advice that you can provide.

TX
Mr fixit
Chris

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Last edited by galooph; 06-14-2021 at 02:33 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-14-2021, 02:14 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Chris. I use for it a belt sander with a curved belt. The sanding belt is not supported.



DSC09941.JPG
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  #3  
Old 06-14-2021, 11:28 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr fixit View Post
Hi Group,

I got a couple of old sheet metal hammers at a garage sale yesterday and the faces have been used to drive nails and general abuse as a hammer not for sheet metal is my guess.
To resurface the faces, those of you that have done this, what is the preferred method and do you try to keep a certain profile of what is there or make it what you see it as.

These are the hammers in question $5 ea. I've got a 2x72 belt sander, I have grinders, flap wheels, sand paper, and of course hand files, but the heads seem to be a bit hardened as the file doesn't do much at first try.

Look forward to any advice that you can provide.

TX
Mr fixit
Chris

Attachment 60292

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Attachment 60294

Hi Chris,
I dress my hammer faces with a D.A., an old pneu CP, set so it is Single Action. Start w/ 220 paper and give the face a few swipes to chase out the dings, switch over to 320 and bless the faces criss-cross.



I set my wrist a few clicks each way for each radius adjustment.
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  #4  
Old 06-14-2021, 11:37 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
MetalShaper of the Month October 2012
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Glen Cove, Long Island
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I agree with Jaroslav. Ideally what you need is what I call a polish sander for lack of knowing the correct industry name. It would have a rubber & ribbed contact wheel for heavier material removal and the belt would not be backed up with any type of platen. After you remove the scratches on the contact wheel you blend and polish the face (usually with a finer grit) with the unbacked sanding belt. The belt has a spring tensioner so it can stretch around a curved surface. Before I had the proper sander I used to dress my hammer, spoon & die faces with a hand held 6 DA sander with a softer backup pad but it was slow going. The photo is Little Franky polishing some spoons & dollies for me, something he seems to be able to do for hours without getting bored . ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #5  
Old 06-15-2021, 12:52 AM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Great comments fellas,

My 2" x 72" belt sander has a section of free floating belt, so it looks like I will take your advice and get at it later this week.

I appreciate the help.

TX
Mr fixit
Chris
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  #6  
Old 06-15-2021, 03:36 AM
Richard Lennard Richard Lennard is offline
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DA sander on spin not orbital.
Really fast.
Work down a couple of grades.
Comes up like chrome.
Profile, as you please.
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  #7  
Old 06-22-2021, 04:34 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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I took a picture of the contact wheel with the sanding belt removed that Little Franky was using in post #4. Also shown are the 2 contact wheels I picked to use on the polishing lathe Im in the process of setting up in my shop. Contact wheels can remove some serious material, sometimes even too much . ~ John Buchtenkirch
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