All MetalShaping

Go Back   All MetalShaping > General Metal Shaping Discussion > General Discussion
  Today's Posts Posts for Last 7 Days Posts for Last 14 Days  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-19-2022, 09:42 AM
sfm1951 sfm1951 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Blackberry, Minnesota 55744
Posts: 96
Default Raduis brake

I m building a radius brake and needs some help. I have alot of it figured out, but I have some questions on the adjuster mounting of the bearing. I'm going to use a take up bearing for the raising , lowering , and the height adjustment( thanks Metal Manny) the question does anybody have any clear pictures of the adjuster to do this? I think the adjuster take up bearing would have to be mounted at an angle to compensate for the different size radius bars ( 1" 2" 3" etc. ) am I correct that the bearing would have to be stepped back at an angle to to keep the radius bar centered over the follow bar to be kept in position to make the radius of the bend for the follow bar to form it? If I m correct in my thinking the bearing would have to set at an angle to compensate for the difference In radius bar size. Thanks in advance, Steve
__________________
Steve

never-ever kick a fresh turd on a hot day!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-19-2022, 04:38 PM
racer-john's Avatar
racer-john racer-john is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Shop is NO LONGER in "Asnorveldt"( the "Marsh"), Ontario, Canada
Posts: 286
Default Raduis brake

Steve, I am a little confused here, are we talking sheet metal or tubing here?
__________________
John S. E

_________________________________________________
Torque is nothing, unless you can get it to the road.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-19-2022, 06:27 PM
sfm1951 sfm1951 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Blackberry, Minnesota 55744
Posts: 96
Default Radius brake

For sheetmetal drive shaft tunnels, rolled belly pans, and other parts
__________________
Steve

never-ever kick a fresh turd on a hot day!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-19-2022, 09:37 PM
racer-john's Avatar
racer-john racer-john is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Shop is NO LONGER in "Asnorveldt"( the "Marsh"), Ontario, Canada
Posts: 286
Default Raduis brake

Thanks for the clarification, Steve.
I built one just using a pipe of suitable size with three tabs welded on and bolted to the original upper clamp bar. [to make a rolled rocker panel].
__________________
John S. E

_________________________________________________
Torque is nothing, unless you can get it to the road.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-22-2022, 08:00 AM
sfm1951 sfm1951 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Blackberry, Minnesota 55744
Posts: 96
Default Radius brake

I 've done that on smaller parts. I don't know if that will give me a nice smooth bend at 180 degrees. Being the tunnel will be probably 5 feet long I don't know if I could do that by myself. Or if I have enough lead in my butt to do it anymore with 16 gauge it might be a struggle. Steve
__________________
Steve

never-ever kick a fresh turd on a hot day!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-24-2022, 12:38 PM
metal manny metal manny is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 463
Default

Hi Steve, here's a rough conceptual sketch that might be helpful?
Basically you'd have to insert a short tube section into the take-up bearing inner race to hold the lever operating the forming roller so that when the axle shaft for the radius roller is removed, the lever stays in position on its bearings. This isn't vital but would make changing radius rollers much easier when threading the axle through the assembly. Obviously, the axle would be threaded into the tube of the take-up, then into the centre of the radius roller, out the other side and into the other tube in the second take-up.
The forming roller is slid up and down the lever handle on the two flange bearings on inside of lever and locked off on two clamping brackets on outside of said lever. This is simple arrangement and you might prefer adding screw adjusters here, but not necessary IMO.

Naturally, you'll need to do your own drawings to check clearances between the the fixed parts and the maximum and minimum radius roller you envisage ever having need of?
Anyways, good luck and keep us posted on how your build progresses

Radius brake.jpg
__________________
Manny

Remember that the best of men, are only men at best.

Last edited by galooph; 02-25-2022 at 03:27 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-27-2022, 08:31 AM
sfm1951 sfm1951 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Blackberry, Minnesota 55744
Posts: 96
Default Brake

Thank you again Metal Manny you drawing really clears up how to do this. I will post pics as I build it, Steve
__________________
Steve

never-ever kick a fresh turd on a hot day!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-28-2022, 03:19 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
MetalShaper of the Month October '14 , April '16, July 2020
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western Sierra Nevadas, Badger Hill, CA
Posts: 4,093
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by metal manny View Post
Hi Steve, here's a rough conceptual sketch that might be helpful?
Basically you'd have to insert a short tube section into the take-up bearing inner race to hold the lever operating the forming roller so that when the axle shaft for the radius roller is removed, the lever stays in position on its bearings. This isn't vital but would make changing radius rollers much easier when threading the axle through the assembly. Obviously, the axle would be threaded into the tube of the take-up, then into the centre of the radius roller, out the other side and into the other tube in the second take-up.
The forming roller is slid up and down the lever handle on the two flange bearings on inside of lever and locked off on two clamping brackets on outside of said lever. This is simple arrangement and you might prefer adding screw adjusters here, but not necessary IMO.

Naturally, you'll need to do your own drawings to check clearances between the the fixed parts and the maximum and minimum radius roller you envisage ever having need of?
Anyways, good luck and keep us posted on how your build progresses

Attachment 62920

Nice design. Thanks for posting this dwg.
(About 20 years ago I saw a 4ft long version of this being sold in a tool flyer - $499.00 on legs ...

After about 6 months and 5 catalogues later I stopped seeing it advertised. ....)
__________________
Kent

http://www.tinmantech.com

"All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-28-2022, 04:43 PM
lots2learn lots2learn is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 134
Default

I think you can use the forming radius as the only clamp also. And I would not want a bearing on the outside. Better to have some drag on the material when its pulled around the radius. You will still get springback but much more control with some friction.
If you dont want to mark/scratch material the outside wiper could have plastic face. Maybe a bushing on the handle pivot also. Your forces are much lower than a typical brake and they do not use any bearings.
__________________
Greg
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-01-2022, 01:14 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 463
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lots2learn View Post
I think you can use the forming radius as the only clamp also. And I would not want a bearing on the outside. Better to have some drag on the material when its pulled around the radius. You will still get springback but much more control with some friction.
If you dont want to mark/scratch material the outside wiper could have plastic face. Maybe a bushing on the handle pivot also. Your forces are much lower than a typical brake and they do not use any bearings.

Correct, one could indeed use the forming roller as the clamp and this would further simplify the build. The reason I used take-up bearings here was not so that the forming roller could turn, but to help Steve use cheap off-the-shelf parts for the adjusters. A simple pin to prevent rotation of this roller could easily be applied to good effect at both ends if using the lower roller as the clamp.

Bronze bushes for the forming roller would also be preferable, but again, for ease and simplicity in construction, I suggested using flange bearings - plentiful, cheap, and quite effective.
__________________
Manny

Remember that the best of men, are only men at best.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:00 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions Inc.