#1
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I do the jaws on all the Lancaster type machines. I remove the teeth in a surface grinder and then stipple the jaws in the same way I do on the large tooling I make.
P1050520.jpg I sell them in several ways: You can send me your dies and I will modify them and send them back to you. The price for this is $75 per set shrink or stretch. Next I can sell you a set of my tooling out right they are $105 per set shrink or stretch. Lastly I can sell you a complete machine with one set of tooling in it for $150 or two frames shrink and stretch for $300. The tooling and frames I sell are new, I buy them from Harbor Fright. Neil www.gogitzit.com |
#2
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To peple who use the lancaster type shrinker stretcher machine you will really be pleeased with how much better the stippled jaws from Gitzit work compared to the original dies. He also plays with adjusting the dies to make them more effecient. We have had a set of his restippled dies for over a year now and they make a lot of difference in what you can do with them. We have the group build marchant type machines in the shop but use the lancaster type for tight radius and also taking the machines close to the ob for fine une up and fit. Dutch
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Dutch Comstock 926 Shells Bush Road East Herkimer,N.Y. 13350 (315)866-3034 comstockmetalshaping.com |
#3
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Do they work on 18 gauge cold rolled?
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#4
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Yes, yes they do! I was quite impressed with their performance on steel. As the stippling he applies is rather aggressive in order to work well on steel, they do leave some marking on aluminum which is not objectionable and NOT even comparable to the outright damage done by the stock jaws. However, the dies can have the stippling applied lighter if the majority of the work done by the customer is in aluminum or softer metals. Remember, this is custom work folks - Neil does the modifications and tuning himself!
Heck, Neil even delivered a set of dies to me in Alabama! That really becomes interesting once you know our locations
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Tim D. |
#5
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Hi Neil,
why is the stipple effect not on the whole die Ben |
#6
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I would think you need to have an area free of the stippling (what grabs the metal) to allow the metal room for expanding (stretch) or compressing (shrink). If the stippling was all the way to the end, the only portion of the metal that would move would be that between the gap, as the stippling would tend to hold tight all the way to the edge, making for less effective shrink/stretch operation.
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#7
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Ben,
MP&C is right. The dies in the picture are stretching dies. If the whole die all the way to the edge is gripping the part then the stretch point is just a line and all the stretching will happen along that narrow line. By cutting the stretch area out a little the stretch can be spread out. Doing this causes less damage to the metal especially on Aluminum as it will crack. On Lancaster type shrinking dies you find they are offset to let the shrink happen over more area. On them most of the growth will be in the gap between the jaws. On the large dies I have made there is an area ground out in the center between the dies just to have a place for this metal thickness growth to go. Neil www.gogitzit.com |
#8
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I will be sending you my dies in a couple of months, I have the eastwood DIY set that has both a shrinker and stretcher (2 frames).
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Mike Mettelka Mettelka Craft Metalshaping Wanted, 41 Cadillac Fleetwood |
#9
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Got my Shrinking Dies today, cant wait to try them out
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John Vintage Rotary Nut |
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