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  #11  
Old 01-20-2021, 02:04 PM
lots2learn lots2learn is offline
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I am widening and lengthening a Ford F1 truck. For the doors I drilled aluminum rulers #40 drill for clecos. That way I could match drill the door and slide the pieces 6" apart and re-attach 4 rulers. Stack and clamp the rulers together and drill them all at once on drill press.

For the cab sectioning I used 4 large turnbuckles and welded the ends to temp braces. Very easy to just move a few thousands. Drilled #40 holes in the body and use this trammel bar to check that everything moved exactly the same. Much more accurate than a tape measure. Can draw a line between holes before cutting to make measurement is still in alignment after moving the pieces apart using flexible ruler for curved surfaces.

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  #12  
Old 01-24-2021, 02:25 PM
Overkill Overkill is offline
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Default Greg's ideas

Those are pretty cool ideas Greg, and I may use them in the future.

I was working on a project and used a chalk line, which messed me up because of the width of the line. In some projects, a little bit here and there really matters.
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Ron Covell, Autofuturist books (Tim Barton/Bill Longyard) and Kent White metalshaping DVD's available, shipped from the US. Contact lane@mountainhouseestate.com for price and availability.
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  #13  
Old 01-26-2021, 05:28 PM
Hotflint Hotflint is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lots2learn View Post
I am widening and lengthening a Ford F1 truck. For the doors I drilled aluminum rulers #40 drill for clecos. That way I could match drill the door and slide the pieces 6" apart and re-attach 4 rulers. Stack and clamp the rulers together and drill them all at once on drill press.

For the cab sectioning I used 4 large turnbuckles and welded the ends to temp braces. Very easy to just move a few thousands. Drilled #40 holes in the body and use this trammel bar to check that everything moved exactly the same. Much more accurate than a tape measure. Can draw a line between holes before cutting to make measurement is still in alignment after moving the pieces apart using flexible ruler for curved surfaces.

Attachment 58649

Attachment 58650

Attachment 58651
WOW!!! This is really cool! I think I am going to do this!!! Thank you
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  #14  
Old 01-26-2021, 05:30 PM
Hotflint Hotflint is offline
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Sorry everyone, no updates this week. I worked on scraping more of the tar off from the roof and never quite got finished. I am trying to complete the rebuild of my planiashing hammer at the same time and got sidetracked/made rally good progress on it. I want to have the planishing hammer completed before I cut the car up.
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  #15  
Old 01-26-2021, 10:50 PM
Hotflint Hotflint is offline
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Here is what I worked on this week in between rounds of scraping tar off the roof (I could only handle doing it for about an hour at a time haha)
https://youtu.be/-bTYo8t0Tt0
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  #16  
Old 02-05-2021, 06:50 PM
Hotflint Hotflint is offline
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Default Busy week!

I finally had a whole week off from work. I got a little side tracked with another little project. Some friends of mine are doing a project to showcase some of their skills on YouTube. Normally I try to stick to street rod stuff, but I thought it would be cool to showcase some Metalshaping so I quickly made a motorcycle tank side with a reverse curve indent for some detail, This was the first time I attempted this, it is by no means perfect, but if I spent more time on it I could improve it a lot, but it was a great learning experience.


Here is the Youtube video of the process https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYl89rXlGWk Its less than a minute thirty, Please let me know what you think and what I can improve on

Anyway,
This week I was able to spend 2 whole days working on the Pontiac!!!
I started out by making telescoping tubing that has holes drilled in it at the stock width of the frame, then at 7 inches. Then I welded castors to the bottom, acting as outriggers on the side and stabilizers in the middle. The idea is to spread the car and have it supported as much as possible. I levelled the car out the way that it sits, so when I widen it, I will recheck for level and if it is out I can weld jack screws to level it out.


You can see that the middle castor looks off set. I calculated this offset so that it would end up in the middle when the car is spread 7 inches
This side is 13 inches
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  #17  
Old 02-05-2021, 06:53 PM
Hotflint Hotflint is offline
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This side is 6, so it should also equal 13 when it is spread

I also spent some time to fabricate up a stabilizer set for under the middle of the car. The frame has an X-member, so these will support on the frame, Then I will run telescoping tubing between them and weld uprights to support the floor, which is about the only thing on the car getting cut down the center.
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  #18  
Old 02-05-2021, 06:57 PM
Hotflint Hotflint is offline
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I also spent some time wrapping up some of the firewall bracing that I had started and never finished earlier.
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