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  #61  
Old 01-20-2021, 09:14 PM
devin1 devin1 is offline
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Hey thanks Marcus! Chris, yes mostly plug welds on the floor panels,all the edges are supported by structure underneath,the rockers on the outside edges, the two ribs have flanges that the floor sits on. Also there is a 1 inch 90 degree flange bent up on the floor pan, the trans and drive shift tunnel then overlap these edges and are plug welded together.
The two layers vertically make it very solid. All edges will be seam sealed after epoxy primer. Hope this helps, I'll take some pics from below next time I'm under there.
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  #62  
Old 02-04-2021, 09:04 PM
FranMar FranMar is offline
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Default Rust panel patch

Nice work here. Iím always hesitant to take on the rust jobs, and usually turn them down because I donít want to deal with a customer that wonít understand that rust may come back, and sometimes accelerate as well.
Am I wrong and should I be taking this work in? Iíve just had some bad experiences and have had to repaint quarter panels just so I donít lose a customer.

-Frank
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  #63  
Old 02-05-2021, 01:17 PM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FranMar View Post
Nice work here. Iím always hesitant to take on the rust jobs, and usually turn them down because I donít want to deal with a customer that wonít understand that rust may come back, and sometimes accelerate as well.
Am I wrong and should I be taking this work in? Iíve just had some bad experiences and have had to repaint quarter panels just so I donít lose a customer.

-Frank

If it came back within a year, you did something wrong such as not removing enough metal. Customer must realize going in that sometimes one must make up to 3 individual layers for one repair in one spot. Problem is, clients that understand what you're saying are usually the ones that tell you to skip a step ($$) and then complain as soon as the rust comes back.


If you have enough work without dealing with rust, your life will be much better. JMHO
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  #64  
Old 02-05-2021, 09:16 PM
devin1 devin1 is offline
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Thanks franmar,I agree with pugsy on making sure you cut out as much rust as possible, and treating what you can't,either by blasting or rust converter. Epoxy primer is also a must for preventing corrosion in my opinion. No guarantees when it comes to rust coming back,especially if a car gets driven.Cars rust in the damdest places sometimes, lol
Haven't had too many issues but the occasional redo is not uncommon,depends on the customer how it gets handled.
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  #65  
Old 02-18-2021, 02:37 PM
devin1 devin1 is offline
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Hey everyone, back with a little more progress. Got mostly all the rear sheet metal welded in and cleaned up.
Got most of the fuel cell mounting figured out,just needs a hold down bracket of some kind.
One evening I patched up the bottom of the rad support,beadroller works great!


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  #66  
Old 02-20-2021, 10:44 AM
devin1 devin1 is offline
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Back with a little more. Let's talk rearends,lol,specifically 9 inch fords. I am a chevy man so this is my first go around with a ferd 9 in. Originally when my customer bought this car he also purchased aftermarket 31spline axles that were meant for a wider car,so I had to extend the splines 2 inches,wow what a job that was. I rough cut the housing,put it in my lathe and squared up the ends after many measurements.i was going for a centered pinion so all was based off c/l of that.Cut off the axles,tacked on the ends,threw the thing in the car and made sure the tires fit inside the quarters.then I built rear frame and installed 4 link kit.
Recently an all new 456 posi third member arrived so I thought I would " change gears" from sheetmetal work and finish up the housing, so I tore it out set it up on a cart and cut the bearing ends back off.
Machined up some alignment bushings and picked up a 4ft length of 1 1/4 od ground finish 1095 steel. Left around.002 clearence hoping this would be enough to avoid this whole mess becoming stuck .Stripped the original carrier out and installed it
back in with new gasket and center alignment pucks,fed the bar through, slid on the ends, every thing lined up beautifully so I tacked the ends back on.
After preheating with torch, fully welded the ends on, let cool,checked again with alignment pucks and everything looked good,so fingers crossed,it will be OK.
If anyone sees something I may have overlooked I welcome all feedback on this good or bad. Here are some pics.












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  #67  
Old 02-22-2021, 04:46 PM
custommetal custommetal is offline
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First ,great job Devin. Will keep your alignment system for the tube end caps in mind. Iíve been away from this forum for a while, just busy, so trying to catch up. My only comment is I would add small gussets to the panard bar mount , front and rear. I usually over engineer stuff that I do. That mount will twist slightly as the pinion angle changes with acceleration.
George
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  #68  
Old 02-22-2021, 06:06 PM
devin1 devin1 is offline
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Thanks George, I totally agree on the panhard,it is just mocked up for now, its way too tall for my liking, plan to cut it down some and will definitely add a gusset of some kind. Thanks for your feedback.
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  #69  
Old 02-23-2021, 02:02 AM
Fargoman Fargoman is offline
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You're better off having an oversized Panhard bracket on the chassis end and keep the axle mount as short as possible.

As long as the bar is horizontal when loaded it should all work well.

Whilst the car isn't built to go around corners it will be more predictable when torque is being fed through it with the long chassis short diff brackets.
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  #70  
Old 02-23-2021, 04:43 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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The height of the panhard determines your roll centre too. Might be worth researching before deciding on final placement height.
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