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  #521  
Old 12-21-2016, 04:26 AM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Jack I burst out laughing at 420 this morning reading your welder/grinder comment! haha Nice!

You are doing a great job and excellent presentation. A dummy like me can follow along and learn, so many thanks!
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  #522  
Old 12-21-2016, 04:04 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I wanted to finish up the inboard side today, there's nothing out of the ordinary on this panel. It's almost done but still needs a little adjusting.

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There's about two feet of the flange area that raised up after welding. I need to straighten that out, then it's on to the outboard side.

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  #523  
Old 12-22-2016, 06:01 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I finished off the inboard panel. A little stretching along the edges and some hand manipulation and it lays on the buck like a blanket.

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I've been trying to find a solution for the side trim since I started this project. Originals won't be the right size even if they could be found. They are virtually nonexistant in any condition. I knew I'd have to make them but wasn't sure how. There's no way I could roll a perfectly straight bend on a 6 1/2 foot long tapered strip on a bead roller. Maybe that could be done but not by me. Angle was a thought but it's too sharp on the bend and the way it's made, it is usually thicker near the bend. Really tough to work with. I decided to get some 2" square stainless steel. At first I was thinking .030" but I need enough material there to be able to grind out tool marks after I maul the stuff with a shrinker and beat it with every hammer I own so I decided to get .062". I knew I'd need to heat it to get some cooperation out of it but it was more important to be able to smooth it out and polish it without it being so thin it's worthless, so .062" it is.
I cut a 6 1/2 foot tapered angle off one of the corners. There must be a lot of internal stress, or maybe due to the heat from cutting, the strip bowed up in a controlled smooth arch. A little more than what the fender will have so I used the stretcher to bring it in where it fit along the buck.

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I was alternating between heating with the torch and shrinking to pull the curve in at the front. What I learned from this test was that I should have left an extra inch or two up here so the shrinker had something to bite on. Also, after wrestling with this bend, I took a break and came up with a better method for heating. I was heating about a one inch long area then shrinking but i think I need to heat just a thin strip going from the edge to the bend. This would be in line with the gap between the shrinker jaws softening only the area that needs to be compressed. I'll try that when I finish these.

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Next I used a DA with an interface pad and various grits of sandpaper from #80 to #1500. I needed to see if I could get all the tool marks smooth and the discoloration from heating removed. Good on both counts.

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I don't need to go any further with these right now. I just needed to see if I could do what I wanted to do. This method will work so another problem is solved.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 12-25-2016 at 10:24 PM.
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  #524  
Old 12-22-2016, 06:25 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Excellent job, and thanks for sharing this process as I need to make trim for my Chrysler!
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  #525  
Old 12-23-2016, 02:47 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Have a great Christmas, everyone.

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  #526  
Old 12-25-2016, 08:36 PM
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ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Jack thanks for this thread it is sensational.
I have learnt heaps, I built an alloy body for my GT40 and always felt I let myself down in the buck pattern stage.
I am doing another car and looking at your buck work has inspired me not to cut corners.
If you want to play this game woodwork skills need to improve as it goes hand in hand.

Congrats and thanks for passing on the knowledge.

Jim
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Last edited by ozi jim; 12-25-2016 at 08:41 PM.
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  #527  
Old 12-25-2016, 10:22 PM
onya onya is offline
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Merry Christmas Jack.
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  #528  
Old 12-28-2016, 01:02 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Front upper half on the outboard side is next. Using a paper pattern is not really an ideal method but it will give you some information. You can't get much detailed information from them but this isn't a very complex shape, so it shouldn't be a problem.
Where the paper wrinkles as it's put down against the buck, cut slits going from the outer edge inward until the paper lays as flat as possible along the buck and stations.

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The small dots I marked are where the radius begins. This is where the cuts in the paper pattern end. The line drawn on is where the radius starts getting tighter. The radius is a parabolic curve. As it moves outward along the station, the curve gets gradually tighter. The line just helps me watch where to start the heavy shrinking.

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I am alternating between tuck shrinking and the deep shrinker. I always have difficulty capturing these large tucks. The distance from the impact to the edge of the sheet is over four inches and the tuck fans out about that much along the edge. This would probably be much easier with a tucking tool but I don't have one long enough to do the job. I'll make one if I start having trouble bringing in the outer radius.

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I still have a long way to go with this one but it's starting to go where it needs to go.

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  #529  
Old 12-28-2016, 09:45 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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Jack said: "The distance from the impact to the edge of the sheet is over four inches and the tuck fans out about that much along the edge."

By this are you referencing the initial forming of the tuck or as you are "working it out" towards the edge?
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  #530  
Old 12-28-2016, 10:25 AM
Onemorehammer Onemorehammer is offline
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Jack, Take the time to watch on You Tube the video by Wray Schelin on stump, tuck shrinking a Jaguar mini fender. If you haven't seen this it may be of help to you, I have watched it many times.
Thanks for documenting your project, I look forward to your post each evening, Dan
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