1949 Cadillac Roadster Build

[Jack 1957]

Steve, I'm showing 168 pages Anyway, I used a DA sander and 40 grit to knock down the rough edges, then 80 grit to smooth it out. Dry, no water needed. Light pressure and don't focus on any one spot for too long. It builds up heat if you do.

[123pugsy]

I have 84 pages.

[Jack 1957]

That's odd.

[123pugsy]

Nah, it's in user preferences, how many posts one wants to see per page.
I now know you're seeing double the pages as I am, so I went back to page 38 and found the glass info.

[Steve Hamilton]

Originally Posted by Jack 1957

I need to cut the windshield and my Go-To guy is going for a knee replacement Monday so I'm on my own. I've done this before on my 57 Chevy but I don't like working with glass. I got it first time with the 57 and chalked it up to dumb luck. I don't recommend this method but I'm going to cover everything I do so here it is:
The reason for cutting is that the Buick windshield has a forward leaning A pillar which is what I want but the angle is too steep. On the original application, they used an inverted pie slice shaped vent window which allowed the run channel for the door glass to be vertical. I'm not using a vent window so the run channel will be angled and the door window will move rearward as it is rolled down. I allowed for this when I was working on the doors. Do you remember that I cut the top 12 inches of the back edge of the doors and leaned them forward? I wasn't just goofing off. This was the reason for doing that. I need the room back there to let the windows come down without hitting the inside of the door frame.
You can see in the picture below that the piece I'm cutting out is wedge shaped. I used striping tape to mark the cut. Masking tape can come off from the water. I set up a hose to trickle water over the work area.

Attachment 43700

I use a Roto Zip and a 1/8" diamond bit. This one is 40 grit but if you were going to do this, I would recommend an 80 grit bit. It may cut a little slower but will give a smoother edge on the glass.

Attachment 43701

Slow and steady. Patience is the main ingredient. Get in a comfortable position and take a break when you need to. Once I got in about 3 inches, I put spring clamps on to keep the waste glass from vibrating and causing a crack. Also, make small stress relief cuts every few inches.

Attachment 43702

Attachment 43703

Next, just smooth out the ragged edges with 40 grit paper, then 80 grit on a DA and it's done.

Attachment 43704

I started on the upper frame first. I'm using 1" x 2" rectangle tube on top and 1"x 1" on the sides. There will be additional 18ga sheet metal layers also. I put reference mark every couple inches along the length starting from the center and going out toward the ends. This is just to help locate exactly where it might need more work when going back and forth from the bender to the windshield.

Attachment 43705

This will be bent in the vertical and horizontal planes so it goes through the process twice. Start bending from the center outward and creep up on it til you have the right shape. Many small bends to minimize kinking.

Attachment 43706

Here is the post on cutting the glass and sanding it

Steve

[Jack 1957]

I masked off thearea around the windshield to prevent getting any of the windshield adhesive on the dash or frame. It's difficult to remove if it gets on anything it's not supposed to be on.





I use DuPont Betaseal U-418 on windshields. It's a fast cure version of the U-428. This is what most OEMs use and it costs less than half of what 3M Window Weld costs.





Dave to the rescue again. I had my buddy stop by and help me set the windshield. They aren't that heavy but they're big and have to be set in accurately to avoid smearing the bead of urethane. It laid down perfectly. Perfect fit. I was surprised at how accurate I made the frame considering I was in the rough-in stage when I built it.
I do remember spending a lot of time getting the windshield frame as accurate as possible when I was getting everything roughed in, but I had to guesstimate some things in the process.
I went around the perimeter with a flash light to check for full seal and found an area about 2 inches wide along the top edge that didn't seat. I gradually slid the windshield side to side while applying pressure to the front face and managed to reduce that gap to less than one inch.

I'll let it cure like that and fill that gap tomorrow. The glass needs to be installed in its relaxed state. You shouldn't squeeze and clamp till the adhesive dries to seal a problem like this. The pressure built in will eventually crack the glass.
I'll put the reveal moldings on after I seal up this spot.

[Gojeep]

Thank you for the information Jack.

[Larry4406]

Originally Posted by Jack 1957

The windshield will be glued in with urethane adhesive. The black around the perimeter is there so the adhesive can't be seen from outside the car. Same as all the late model vehicles.

Thank you for the explanation. I know understand the black perimeter on our newer cars!

[Jack 1957]

I resealed the top edge of the windshield and checked for leaks; high and dry. I put on the upper and lower reveal moldings and everything fit right after a little trimming on the lower molding... Windshield is done. Most people will never believe what it took to put a 58 Buick wrap around windshield in a 49 Cadillac.

[Gojeep]

Wow, that looks terrific Jack!