#1
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Planishing Hammer in my autobody shop
Hey guys, I’ve been looking at planishing hammers for a project I’m working on for myself. I thought I’d get a cheap-O as I only needed it for this one specific thing. As I look into it more, maybe it makes sense to invest in something of more quality, which I usually prefer. Justifying its use for
my autobody shop usually helps. Now, I think to myself, handheld or stand, tube or cast yoke? So many options. I would like to be able to repair those heavy bumpers on say for example a 2019 Ford F-150 or a Dodge Ram. Or even be able to bring a fender back to shape since parts are now always on national back order (Lets go Brandon). I do like the Proline Pro planishing hammer or the Mechammer Mark II from Trick-Tools’ site. Any suggestions on buying one of these along with a handheld yoke, or just building a stand? Thanks in advance. -Frank
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Frank |
#2
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Modern stuff is almost all HSLA steel now. Even the bumpers on some trucks is HSLA. It is essentially unworkable. My former job I did a lot of insurance salvage.stuff that was HSLA you simply can not pull on the frame machine. It takes a set and doesn't move. If you use heat you destroy it because you take the temper out of it which is required to maintain the designed strength of the part.
Not telling you what to do but you should already be able to work a fender close enough without a p-hammer. And lots of exterior sheet is HSLA now as well.The bodylines of modern vehicles don't suit working with a p-hammer IMO.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#3
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Thanks, I had a feeling this was the case, but since I have zero experience with a p-hammer I figured I’d ask before I bought anything. Eventually, I may get something just for hobby purposes.
As for my project, I need to make corner caps for a kitchen exhaust hood that I’ve been wanting to make. I’m planning on using my stretcher but it’s stainless and leaves some ugly marks. I’ll see what I can do. Thanks A4BFB95F-6CD1-4087-93CF-E2F634C2569B.jpg 28D51FA4-6B62-4C3B-BEC8-1307D2B3E56B.jpg D250E4D2-1CBE-463B-8981-8360F757799E.jpg
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Frank Last edited by galooph; 12-13-2021 at 03:54 AM. |
#4
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Not trying to discourage you from getting one, just don't think it will be all that great for a modern late model vehicle.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#5
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Frank, I think what you're dealing with would be pretty easy in EW. No beating. You will elongate the edge fibers nicely and it will stay smooth. The EW must be solid for it to work on stainless steel. Plastic wheels to leave no unwanted messages.
You must select the radii that are appropriate for your case. The upper wheel must have a slightly smaller radius. https://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18968
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Jaroslav Last edited by Jaroslav; 12-12-2021 at 01:45 PM. |
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