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  #1  
Old 02-07-2019, 02:29 PM
Moulder Moulder is offline
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Default What style of buck do you prefer?

I have no actual shaping experience but have spent a few years studying, reading, and watching videos on metal shaping. I know this is not a substitute but it is better than nothing. Unfortunately my life at this particular moment is very hectic. Overtime at work, I take care of our two kids before work, and my wife came from a broken home (so 3x the family functions of my family).

I want to build a replica of the 1933 1.5 ton dodge truck that I have. I want to do things like increase the scale of it. Build a crew cab version of the cab. Delete some of the style line l, and build a grill shell that resembles the 1933 car and pickup grill shell.

My original plan was to build foam bucks to pull flexible shape patterns from. I like the idea of this for the amount of information it will give me. However I dislike the amount of time and work this will require. Time is very valuable commodity right now. Looking at some of Wray's videos on YouTube I like the idea of wire form bucks. It looks like I could tweak the shape of the crew cab until it is pleasing to the eyes and not require hours of sanding like a foam buck. Once again, however I'm worried about having enough information to make the correct shape in the panels. It looks like they help you get 75-90% there but the rest would be on you. Is that correct?
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Old 02-08-2019, 03:14 AM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Horses for courses James.

I'm also quite new at this and was convinced that for the alloy Group 5 panels for my BMW, I'd do a wireframe buck. I detest the dust from MDF and have more experience with metal than wood.

However as a limber up to this massive undertaking, I agreed to make a Ducati Imola petrol tank. Because the tank had to sit down over the frame, a traditional wooden buck would not work (due to the thin section at the front) hence I made a wireframe. The lie of the stations gave me grief all the way and several required shortening or lengthening to get the required flow.

20180530_180041.jpg

20180530_185114.jpg

Armed with this new experience, I re-examined the Group 5 project and concluded that indeed my mate and mentor who works mainly in MDF was right - MDF would be easier.

This still was no walk in the park, but once I had the rough shapes for each of the stations on the first side, I was able to gradually shave them down to achieve the required transition. I used a 25x10mm strip of HDPE plastic to check the flow (or 'fair' as I think they call it in boatbuilding circles). The buck was then dismantled and used as templates for the other side.

20190106_231813.jpg

You can see the black HDPE strip on the jig table.

20190106_231838.jpg

The bootlid ducktail buck was built from aluminium scrap slotted and hot glued together. The idea is that the original boot lid can be used for the buck for the main skin, the spoiler buck then reinstated and the back of the skin curved up to fit the form.

20190123_214525.jpg

20190123_214844.jpg

So horses for courses!

Pay to post some picture or sketches of what you are trying to achieve James - there are many folk here who are experts with bucks and will have far more ideas than I.
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2019, 11:34 AM
Moulder Moulder is offline
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I'm looking to do something like the cab in the attachment. Eventhough my truck is 1.5 ton version it is tiny. I want to scale it up to being the same width of a current day truck. My original plan was to cut, splice, lengthen, widen, and on and on and on. By the time I do all of that I feel like I could make new panels with new steel and possibly have fewer weld seams.
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File Type: jpg 1934-36-Dodge-Brothers-Truck-03-1024x764-640x480.jpg (29.4 KB, 40 views)
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:40 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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Have you reviewed GoJeep's thread - the "GrandWillys Project"?


That would be advantageous as he has been pursuing something similar and I think it would enable you to "ask better questions".


As I recently stated in his thread, he not only shows various techniques, but an invaluable insight on how to "manage" such a project.


Finally, don't stop there! There's a series of "build threads" that are simply wonderful for someone with a goal like yours !
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:02 PM
Moulder Moulder is offline
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Yes I have Marc. I've been a long time lurker here since 2012

With the amount of things I want to change there wouldn't be very much left of the original truck. The grill shell and hood will all be new. I want a 3 peice hood and also need it to be wider and longer for the Cummins engine I have to put in it. The black truck is mine and the pickup is what I want to style the grill shell after.

Sorry I'm doing this from my phone and it won't let me upload the pictures for some reason.
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Last edited by Moulder; 02-08-2019 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:28 PM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
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I believe the buck needs work for you, with whatever tools and materials you have or prefer. But definitely ready through the Buck building section. There many methods shown there.
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Old 02-08-2019, 01:14 PM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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I am currently building a buck for an Alfa Speciale, which is quite curvaceous (compound curves) in some parts and had originally intended going with ply sections which would be hand cut - even bought the ply.

Having plotted/lofted all the stations off the original body, I decided that, based on info from others who've done this before, I would rather go steel for speed and adustability. Boy am I glad I chose this method as it provides a fantastic base for quickly filling in detail sections like grill/headlight areas where more information is needed - without hours of bondo-ing wood etc. Headlight buckets can be rolled and welded in in a jiff - well, almost! If you notice a discrepancy, no problem, simply cut and re-attatch. Wheel arches can also be easily formed from round bar and used as the hammer form for the fender openings, which is a bonus, IMO.

I never loved the existing design of my Alfa's trunk section and decided as an afterthought to change it slightly; and this is where wood would have proven a real frustration.
I use a commercial steel bender and an anvil to form the shapes as required.

I can provide photos if you're interested...
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:22 PM
Moulder Moulder is offline
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What do you mean by "quick filling in detail sections"? Are you adding more round bar or filling with foam or what?
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2019, 05:02 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moulder View Post
What do you mean by "quick filling in detail sections"? Are you adding more round bar or filling with foam or what?

I mean adding in bar to better define transitions in shape etc, like where there's a lot of detail in a small area.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:01 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metal manny View Post
I am currently building a buck for an Alfa Speciale, which is quite curvaceous (compound curves) in some parts and had originally intended going with ply sections which would be hand cut - even bought the ply.

Having plotted/lofted all the stations off the original body, I decided that, based on info from others who've done this before, I would rather go steel for speed and adustability. Boy am I glad I chose this method as it provides a fantastic base for quickly filling in detail sections like grill/headlight areas where more information is needed - without hours of bondo-ing wood etc. Headlight buckets can be rolled and welded in in a jiff - well, almost! If you notice a discrepancy, no problem, simply cut and re-attatch. Wheel arches can also be easily formed from round bar and used as the hammer form for the fender openings, which is a bonus, IMO.

I never loved the existing design of my Alfa's trunk section and decided as an afterthought to change it slightly; and this is where wood would have proven a real frustration.
I use a commercial steel bender and an anvil to form the shapes as required.

I can provide photos if you're interested...
Manny. Can you Show photos? I gradually come to some things. I was helped me CU wire 3 line, but it's a soft shape. It's good for work, but it can be damaged after something time a while.
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