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  #811  
Old 01-21-2018, 04:46 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Been nearly 2 1/2 years since I stripped the paint off the grille parts and ran them through the citric acid bath to remove any rust before spraying with lanolin. Glad to see that it didn't rust sitting in the garage in all that time.


I am starting by adding an extra grille slot on each side by using a bigger centre section cut from another grille to do it.


You face little problems like this with the top face not matching up due to the taper.


After welding all except the turned lip on the inside, I will refold the wider part to blend in with the rest. The stake I'm forming it over is some 16mm steel from a towbar tongue and fits inside, so will hammer along its edge.


The blend worked quite well. The lip on the inside was trimmed so it all was the same length.


So this is the first part of the widening as this only added 5" and need a total of 9" to match the extra width of the cab. 2" on each side will be added between the headlight hole and the side of the grille. The slotted area of the grille matches the donor Grand Cherokee radiator core width. The extra 2" each side will have the tanks behind it. Hoping the headlights will still fit!


On the wall above on the left is the original 1948 grille and the one on the right in the 1958 grille. I have been shooting for a blend of the two styles.
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  #812  
Old 01-21-2018, 10:56 AM
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pplace pplace is offline
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The start of the grille looks perfect so far! With your approach to adding the extra width in multiple spots, it'll maintain it's nice proportions and it'll be tough to even notice it unless it's side by side with an original. I'm very much anticipating following along as you tackle the challenge of the front sheetmetal!

Not to sidetrack your awesome thread........but after seeing all your Jeep & Willys memorabilia in the background of your build photos I just had to share a project I did in the not so distant past for a customer that is as much of a Jeep fanatic as you are!!

This was an old oil dispensing work station out of a mechanic's shop (around 1950 era) We restored it in a Willys Service Station theme.

All logos are painted on and not decals.

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  #813  
Old 01-22-2018, 04:47 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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I love it! Very art deco style and so very cool.
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  #814  
Old 01-22-2018, 11:42 PM
Gulley Gulley is offline
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This is great memories for me. My dad was a mechanic in a Studebaker dealership in the early 50's and each mechanics work station was like this.
I spent a lot of nights and Saturdays there with him.
Gullley
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  #815  
Old 02-04-2018, 02:39 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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I am going to run the radiator and the huge hydraulic fan, that is controlled by the ECU, from the donor to make sure there are no overheating problems. It only just all fits in the engine bay but would like some more 'service' room to change a belt etc. Been wondering how best to lengthen the engine bay without moving the centreline of the wheels inside the wheel arch. On my 1948 front guards, like these ones above, the front curves and goes straight across to the grille.


On the 1950 and later models it goes ahead of the grille before coming back to the same point. So my idea is to leave the outside of the guard alone and just bring the inside point forward, making a blend of the two styles.


Scribed a line 90* to the outside of the guard where the panel just starts to curve downwards.


Cut along the line and forward along the centre crease line.


Also slit the bottom flange at the bottom of the crease line as well as the panel join so it could be pulled forward.


I didn't pull it right forward until straight as wanted some curve back left as thought it looked better and was a blend of the two styles as well.


Need to extend the inner guard forward I decided I might as well remove the pressing for the shock mount that I no longer need. I started the shaping by just pushing over a T dolly that was a similar radius to the back half of the inner guard. The front half just needs a curve instead so left that alone.


With the inner guard all welded in I could fill the gaps left.


I radiused a compound curve over a steam pipe bend just using a nylon headed mallet.


Some truing up over the ripping tooth.


Bent the crease line up over the edge of the bench to match. I made the patch this big rather than try and weld in two triangular pieces as that would be more welding and coming together at a sharp point would distort badly.


I try to get it the best I can before tacking and welding into place.


So longer one at the rear and stock one at the front.


I think it is subtle enough that most would never pick it yet it gives me 40mm-1.5" more room between the back of the fan and the front of the engine.


I think the longer bonnet to match will help with the proportions of the longer/wider cab as well. The bonnet in the middle to cover the bigger V in the wider grille adds another 40mm-1.5", making the total bonnet 80mm-3.2" longer overall.
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  #816  
Old 02-04-2018, 10:40 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Looks great, Marcus.

I do agree that amending other dimensions will likely compliment the dimensions which have already grown. It's a very wise strategy imho. Too many times an oem part/dimension corrupts or at least exposes modifications elsewhere or vice versa.
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  #817  
Old 02-05-2018, 05:05 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffrod View Post
Looks great, Marcus.

I do agree that amending other dimensions will likely compliment the dimensions which have already grown. It's a very wise strategy imho. Too many times an oem part/dimension corrupts or at least exposes modifications elsewhere or vice versa.
Thank you mate. Very true indeed.
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aka. Gojeep
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
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  #818  
Old 02-09-2018, 04:41 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Fixing up this welded up crack in the other guard. The other side was fine but they are prone to cracking here, so will cut it out rather than just smooth this old weld out.


Traced the curve and then added the lip width to it and then cut along that line before any shaping took place. You don't want to work with more material than needed when bending in a tight radius. Once the fold is hammered along the line with a high crown hammer to about 45*, I switch to this hammer I got from Peter Tommasini to finish off the folding into the inside corner.


Checking against the corner being replaced before it is cut out makes sure you keep the radius the same.


Outside edge shaped to fit and corners rounded before I then scribe around the patch to cut out the bad section underneath.


Welded into place making sure I had full penetration. If any of the join on the inside is still visible, I weld over it before any grinding has taken place. This means you are welding with the full weld depth on the outside stopping blow through.


Using a grinding disc with some pressure to get some heat into the weld to anneal it some, helps prevent cracking I have found. Take it down to razor blade thickness inside and out. Then hammer on dolly to stretch the weld back to flat. Then sand to flush before hitting it with a strip disc


This side had pitting and some small spots rusted through. This section bolts under the cowl. If the windscreen leaks at all it ends up caught inside the bottom of the cowl until one day it rusts all the way through and onto this area. No drain hole from the factory so I made sure it has one now when I remade the bottom of the cowl.


Rather than make a lot of little repairs I just replaced the whole section. Folded it first and then stretched the flange to get it to curve. Some more shaping over the anvil and stake dollies to get it to sit flat.


Traced the factory mounting holes and cut them out exactly the same. They look strangely aligned but they point along the centeline of the cab.


Put the other guard in place to check the look of the changed front curve making it the 40mm-1.5" longer. Think it works well and the first time in 7 years since the guard was last in place!


This angle makes the guard look longer than it really is, but fits in with the longer cab.
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aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
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  #819  
Old 02-09-2018, 05:40 AM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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I know now why your shirts are always wrinkly Marcus.
I bet you've been using that ironing board in the shop for years...


Looking good as usual.
Thanks for the updates.
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  #820  
Old 02-09-2018, 12:37 PM
Turbo57 Turbo57 is offline
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Thank you for sharing i try to learn as much i can
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