#11
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I have a Milwaukee mag drill & regular drill press, but I saw this the other day thought it was an interesting and creative solution for this gentleman.
https://youtu.be/tucWH0YbbVQ
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Skip Wilson |
#12
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Im about to drill my welding table with a mag drill.
What accuracy should I expect? Ill be marking out as accurate as possible, auto centre punch, then pilot for mag drill bit centre to make absolutely certain things dont jump about mid start, as can happen. I dont need it hideously accurate, just want as good as I am able to do.
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Richard "Everything is in the system, if it aint working, the system aint right" |
#13
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Drilling big holes by hand
I have an old hand drill that will drill 1" holes in 1/2" steel with relative ease. Sharp bit of course. With a standard masonry carbide bit a leaf spring can be drilled. The slow speed and high down pressure (The big nut is the down feed) Makes it very efficient. They come with forged bottom end, but mine was lost. I made the base.
drill.jpg drill chips.jpg
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Bill Funk |
#14
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I've been thinking about doing the same to my 4x8 table with a 3/4 inch top. I've debated with myself about the number of holes/pattern, etc. I'm not sure I'll live long enough to do the six inch apart deal. How about a few thoughts about what is really useful? Threaded holes? Smooth holes with slip in clamps?
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Norm Henderson |
#15
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On my first table I went with 1/2-13 holes on 4" centers, this proved to be too far apart. I usually use table clamps like one would use on a milling machine. On my second table I measured the slot of my longest hold down clamps and decided on 3" on center. This way any spot on the table can be reached by at least two holes. Here are some pictures of my table in use.
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AL |
#16
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If I had to drill 100 holes of the same size in a plate I’d certainly pop for that size annular cutter for 2 reasons. The annular cutters have a spring loaded center point that allows you to move your drill quickly from center point mark to center point mark. Secondly annular cutters drill so fast they make drill bits seem almost prehistoric in comparison, which could be a factor if you are renting a magnetic drill or if you place any value on your time. If you had all your holes already laid out and center points already marked I see no reason why you couldn’t do all 100 holes in one day using a annular cutter. Moving a magnetic drill around on a horizontal plate is cake, but painful to line up to center points on vertical surfaces. Just have the recommended cutting oil and a big garbage bag for chips, you will be swimming in long lathe type chips in no time . ~ John Buchtenkirch
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John |
#17
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Annular cutters
How long do the cutters last? Any lube better than others for cutting oils?
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Steve never-ever kick a fresh turd on a hot day! |
#18
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Holes
What size holes seemed to work best? I think I'm going for the threaded holes. General welding , tube chassis for a 53 Studebaker, and bircages for 68 and up sno pro snowmobiles.
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Steve never-ever kick a fresh turd on a hot day! |
#19
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I would recommend 1/2-13 because that's the most common size of mill table clamp sets. They can usually be picked up for a deal at most auctions. Really though you should pick you clamps before deciding on a thread size. 5/8-11 and 3/4-10 are both common at machine shops with bigger machines and are less desirable to the home machinist so they may be more economical to buy. I would also consider some threaded inserts that allow you to use a smaller bolt to hold something down if needed.
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AL |
#20
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I don't see annular cutters in tap drill sizes, so 7/16" would still need to be drilled with a tap drill in order to thread the hole to 1/2-13. Tapping will be more labor intensive than the holes, but there are some combo drill/taps that might work with a slow speed and gentle touch.
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Eugene |
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