#471
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I like to use ceramic coatings on the inside and outside of headers as the first step to reducing heat soak. I don't like to use header wraps unless I have to.
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Gregory |
#472
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I looking to do the same with mine as way better than using wrapping.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#473
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Relocation Preparation and Exhaust Secondary Fabrication
It’s been a couple of months since the last update and the honest reason for lack of an update is that I haven’t been able to make much progress during this time. The reality is that I’ve wanted to work on the Miura project but have been mostly consumed with trying to re-locate to a new home in another state. If you’ve been in touch with the real estate market here in the USA recently, you probably understand that it’s a crazy, chaotic, sellers market. Given my homebuilt car hobby, I have special requirements for garage/workshop space that really limits the choices of properties that will work for me. When my requirements are combined with my wife’s (hers have nothing to do with garage/workshop) the quantity of candidate homes/properties is even smaller.
There have been a couple of properties we’ve pursued that had nice homes with detached 3,000 sq ft garages on them. Quite frustratingly, neither of these worked out for various reasons. The property that looks like it will be our next home has plenty of space for a large garage/workshop but it currently only has an attached 3 car garage. So the first major project after moving will be the construction of a large garage/workshop. In preparation for the move, I wanted to get the Miura headers and secondary exhaust components finished up. Like the headers, the secondary exhaust is also of tuned lengths and is merged to a single pipe for final blending of all exhaust pulses together. Hopefully the headers and this secondary exhaust configuration will result in a smooth, “V12 like” exhaust sound. With this bit complete, I’m now starting to tidy up the Miura chassis for shipping/storage and packing up the garage for the same.
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#474
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I'd be jealous on just a 3 car garage!
Good luck with your move mate as I'd hate to even contemplate doing it myself.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#475
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Hi Joel!
I just spent the last 2 days reading the thread. As always, your work is wonderful!! When I made up the headers for my V12 GTO, I used the Icengineworks header mockup kit. Assembling a "lego" set of headers then handing them off to get the finished pipes made for a super fast process. Sorry I fell out of touch, I bought a new place too and haven't had enough time for my projects. Michelle
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Michelle Lonnecker Network and Systems Admin and car collector/builder |
#476
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Quote:
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#477
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Miura at new home
Well the Miura has now made the move to the new home.
I'm looking forward to when I'll be there full time and in a position to move the project forward again.
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#478
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Miura Project restarted
Since the move to our new location/home, I’ve been spending my free time on the planning/design stage for a new detached garage/workshop so I’ll have some workspace for car construction. The building plans have now been submitted for permitting and the build site has been prepared. While waiting for wheels of bureaucracy to turn and the building permits to be approved/issued, I looked for things I could do on the Miura project where it is currently stored. I determined that electrical wiring and chassis plumbing (i.e. fuel, brakes, clutch, and coolant) could be done in the tight space with just hand tools.
For the Miura wiring, I decided to use a Painless pre-terminated wiring kit designed for cars using a GM steering column. It has circuits and plugs for the column mounted ignition and headlight dimmer switches on the C4 Corvette steering column that’s in the Miura. Central to this wiring kit is the fuse block which I wanted to mount under the dash in an accessible location. Large bundles of wire sprout out from the fuse block so I needed to find a location where these wire bundles could easily be routed to the various parts of the chassis. I decided to mount the fuse block on the passenger side of the chassis backbone on a hinged plate such the fuse block could swing down for maintenance and tuck back up under the dash to be mostly out of sight. For the Coyote engine, there’s a separate wiring harness for the EFI, ECU, and coil drivers. The engine is outfitted with an Eight Stack EFI that uses the Holley Terminator X system such that a single ECU can control the EFI and the variable DOHC cam timing. To keep all these electronics dry and cool, they were mounted behind the drivers seat which allows the wire bundles nice routing into the engine compartment. As the wiring process proceeds, the chassis and engine wiring harnesses will need to be integrated together along with other smaller harnesses for the electric water pump controller and A/C system.
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#479
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Gas/Brake Pedals Installed
In parallel with wiring installation, the brake system is also being installed. For that, I decided to start with the pedals and work outward to the disk brake calipers. Given the somewhat horizontal seating arrangement in the Miura, it seemed like a good idea to build some adjustability into the pedal locations for drivers with different leg lengths. The pedals are floor mounted using a Wilwood integrated pedal and master cylinder setup. By mounting the pedal set onto a ¼” aluminum plate and then drilling a series of adjustment holes into the plate, I was able to achieve 3” inches of front to back travel for the pedals. The chassis floor is also ¼” aluminum plate so the combined ½” of plate gives the pedals a rigid mounting.
To keep pedal adjustments as simple as unscrewing four nuts, move pedals, and re-installing the nuts; the throttle cable mount also needed to be anchored to the same mounting plate. After digging through my scrap aluminum bin, I came up with this arrangement. Given the engine placement behind the gas pedal, it’s a straight pull between the pedal and cable to open the throttle plates. Having master cylinders whose location can move adds a wrinkle into the plumbing. Namely, flexible lines are required prior to the rigid tubing. Here’s what I came up with. The last piece for this part of the brake system was mounting the fluid reservoirs. My preference for simplicity of checking and re-filling the reservoirs was to mount them on the front side of the front bulkhead. But after fitting a tire into the spare tire well, there just wasn’t enough room left over for the three reservoirs. So the next best location was the backside of the front bulkhead and I’ll need to build in an access door when this area is closed off with sheet metal. So far the most challenging part of the brake system has been figuring out the multitude of fittings, hoses, and tubing that is required. 3/16” tubing for brakes, ¼” tubing for clutch, adapting between NPT and AN threads, angled fittings, bulkheads, and the need for residual pressure valves because the master cylinders are below the calipers makes for a mind boggling quantity of parts that need to be sourced and procured.
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#480
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Check out Brake Hoses Unlimited in Allegan, MI. He builds his hoses to order and has a tremendous assortment of fittings.
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Jeff T. |
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