#11
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Regarding the OPs question, I would use 16ga if bonding to a wooden worktop or 14ga if on spaced timber supports or you want it dent proof, as Kent has suggested. I always prefer bonding to a substrate as you don’t get any tinny noises when working on it but that’s personal choice. It’s not always possible to do this when fabrication work stations for commercial catering applications. Lastly, I would suggest making it in as few pieces as possible and keeping welds to an absolute minimum as, no matter how well they are flatted out and polished, your eye is always drawn to those minute ripples.
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Gareth Davies |
#12
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https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF01350766 I enjoy seeing the "shot peen" references here for stress-relief ... reminds me of the old film "Speed and Heat" showing the Valkyrie (XB-70) and its thin stainless honeycomb being shot-blasted to relieve the post-weld stresses. (1964?) (ps, thermal stress-relief compromises "temper strength" while VSR does not.) Very cool that you got a VSR machine, Gareth.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 05-04-2022 at 12:33 PM. |
#13
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After many interruptions and a few problems I finally have my kitchen top pretty much ready to install. The 16 gauge brushed stainless sheet was $640 so I was very careful not to make any serious mistakes. The problem was I never did a job near this big in my press brake and I ended up having to move a lot of unfinished machinery projects that had accumulated around the brake thru the years. At 74 I’m realizing I should let some of these projects go but I hate giving up on stuff.
My question is can anyone recommend a really good glue to attach this stainless sheet to the plywood base I was thinking of using contact cement but then my sister told me she used silicone to glue down her top. I don’t have that much experience with wood and certainly no experience gluing metal to it so if anyone has had great results with a glue I’d like to hear about it. Thank you in advance. ~ John Buchtenkirch DSC00004.jpg DSC00010.JPG kit502.jpg
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John |
#14
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I never bonded my 16 ga. kitchen table top to the plywood base. I tapped the edges down gently with a rubber mallet for a trial fit. It fit so well that I dared not take it back off. It does not move around at all. I think a structural silicone like GE SilPruf would work. It is designed for window installation to all sorts of materials. It is not a high build so it would squeeze down easily. The best result I feel would be an automotive panel bonder. It contains glass beads for the best adhesion on the stainless. Is goes on thin so it will squish out. There are various cure times available. I would suggest using one that will offer a minimum of a one hour working time with an overnight cure. I would look at some of the less expensive material manufacturers like Crest. 3M is very over priced and not always of equivalent quality.
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Rick |
#15
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You could have a look at Sikaflex. I used to use it for bonding stainless steel wall protection sheets in commercial food production areas and it’s one of those products that does exactly what it’s supposed to do.
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Gareth Davies |
#16
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Nice clean top effort, John. Really good to see your work!
(I second Gareth' vote for the Sikaflex) Spiffy job.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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