#11
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I planish till they blend and then file a little if need it
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#12
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ok thanks for all your help..........i got it.........now to own it ( lot of practice) )
here are the pics........after a quick ewheel the front and back look very similar.
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John Marcus |
#13
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looks good you can also practice move torch back ant forward like a brush that will give you nice dimes and some heat control .If i have a pin holes i weld them before planish the weld, the pin holes you have that's shows where you stoped what you do is start your puddle inside that pinhole and drop welding rod inside that hole and continue your weld seam ,
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#14
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Sollis...... many thanks....invaluable advice
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John Marcus |
#15
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Quote:
You can control your craters by changing one simple thing: when re-starting your weld, back up onto the previous bead by 1/8" to 1/4".
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#16
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Learn to control the width of the bead. Width = penetration. Try using different tip sizes for the same material thickness and size of coupons. Make all of your practice pieces exactly the same size and thickness. Different sizes of coupons will give you different amounts of heat dissipation and make you think you are doing something different when it's only that the material you are welding requires different amounts of heat to get the same results.
Hope this helps. Jere
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Jere Kirkpatrick Valley Forge & Welding HEN-ROB Torch Dealer. Teaching The Fundamentals of Metal Shaping www.jerekirkpatrick.com All tools are a hammer except the chisel.....That's a screwdriver. |
#17
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kent and jere........... lots of homework... Thanks
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John Marcus |
#18
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Out side weld before planishing
GOPR0139.jpg Last edited by jhnarial; 03-02-2014 at 09:32 AM. |
#19
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Last edited by jhnarial; 03-02-2014 at 09:33 AM. |
#20
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penetrations in side
GOPR0151.jpg Last edited by jhnarial; 03-02-2014 at 09:33 AM. |
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