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48inch Finger Break
I have a project I want to build but I don't think I can build the box I have in mind on a 48inch finger brake. Its pretty complex and fairly large.
Can this box be bent on a finger break , or am I going to have to go the Mangnabrake? its 20"X14"X6.5 top with a 9" bottom. It will have a fold-down lid too that is 20X13.5X2.5 . to fill the hole . https://www.instagram.com/p/B-klJxEF..._web_copy_link
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Darrell Been an Automotive Refinish Technician for 43 years . Last edited by Spraywizzard; 04-04-2020 at 03:05 PM. |
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Metal is what alloy, thickness?
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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Are you trying to bend it for all 5 sides or just the 3 sides? If you can tell us what metal, gauge, and finger break size you have, that would help to understand the clearance of the folds. The other way to look at this is to do the 1/2" channel and edges, then the bottom, back, top, then start the ends as far as possible on the bender then finish them by hand.
There is going to be edges that you will have to close by a mechanical means for sure, soldering, welding, riveting, screwing, etc. So why not make the ends as seperate pieces and the rest can be done in the finger brake quite easily. Let us know what you come up with, looks like an interesting box. TX Mr fixit Chris |
#4
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I’d say no on both brakes you mentioned for 1 piece construction. Most finger brakes only have 6” deep fingers so the measurements of the top, sides & bottom are too large to work with even the 8” fingers I have for my Whitney combination brake. Doing the ends separate makes by far the most sense to me. I’d also suggest using spot welded flanges to join the corners to avoid heat warping problems. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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John |
#5
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You can make nice deep boxes by cutting your blank then cutting segments of the bend starting from edge and ending at edge the segment cuts will dictate were the bend will be you can bend some pretty thick stuff like this , when done weld up segments .
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The metal gauge I was thinking will be 22-20 gauge, Aluminum I can get 4x8 sheets that we all use for building IMCA dirt cars, forgotten the thickness of it, but it bends easily.
If 22 gauge metal is to light & Flimsy I have a bead roller to stiffen it up if need be. For bonding, I have 3 options Hand Spot welder for the metal boxes, or Bonding glue we use at my body shop for bonding Bedsides and door skins ...etc. Aluminum can be glue bonded or use pop rivets. I know the Electromagnetic/Magnabrake will bend all these bends, JUst didn't know if an Eastwood 48" Finger brake would work , its why I ask as the finger brake is $2200.00 less then than the Baileigh Magnetic Sheet Metal Brake. Thanks for all your answers
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Darrell Been an Automotive Refinish Technician for 43 years . |
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Darrell Been an Automotive Refinish Technician for 43 years . |
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John is right you won't be able to complete all of the bends on the brake If you go with the Eastwood as you say, I know because I have been there with a similar project in the past..
With the 22 ga metal your working with you can do the partal bend then hand finish the rest of the way is going to be the only option I see, and I'm just a Hobbyist so be sure to listen to the others that are in the business. If you have neither bender and are going to buy something, I would look at the potential of the tool for what it can do in many applications, then make a decision on what you want to get. The cost difference of the 2 is significant and unless you're trying to make money with this tool Is it worth the extra 2K to have one item look like you want it to? Just me thinking outside of the box as I often do. Let us know what you come up with and a picture is always a added bonus for those of us out here trapped in the shop. TX Mr fixit Chris |
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I dont think one of those 3-in-1 brakes would work either as the depth of the box I want to build is going to be a problem with a cheaper brake. Thanks everyone for their replies.
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Darrell Been an Automotive Refinish Technician for 43 years . |
#10
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If you’re going to spot weld the corner overlaps, why not just make it in 3 pieces and spot weld the ends in as it looks like a world of pain to try and make it in one piece? Every time I’ve tried to be clever and do a complex one piece folded job I’ve always kicked myself and wished I’d gone for the simpler option with multiple pieces. One piece jobs need to be super accurate on each fold to get them all to meet as they should do and it’s not easy on manual machines. It’s your choice but 3 pieces on a finger brake is going to be way quicker and easier.
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Gareth Davies |
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