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  #11  
Old 02-16-2021, 06:49 PM
metaldahlberg88 metaldahlberg88 is offline
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This worked well to remove the inclusions that remained after the acid treatment.

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  #12  
Old 04-29-2021, 03:50 PM
2020Presence 2020Presence is offline
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Hey Tommy,

Thank u for the updates man!

How has the muriatic process worked out since posting? Are the pieces still holding up? I've heard tale muriatic is very hard to remove from the steel, how did u go about neutralizing? I have quarter panels that were in a similar position, the rust was baked on tough. Went thru the same courses, phosphoric, naval jelly, steel wool etc. Tried muriatic and it was a breakthrough. I wore a respirator gloves long sleeves and feel the process is worth the safety garb.

Sifting through the internet horror stories on muriatic / hydrochloric, it has been thoroughly demonized. A lot of the old "it rusted my shop overnight," but also some more exotic themes like hydrogen embrittlement and residual chloride ion reaction on the steel. Has anyone went on to have real issues with their material when muriatic is given its dues? I'm no chemist, and when it comes to metals my alchemy is still under development. Is a thorough baking soda spray/soak/rinse sufficient to neutralize and remove the trace muriatic on a panel, do others follow that up with phosphoric acid to seal the deal? That's what I found to work out. Also experimenting with oven cleaner since it is basically foaming lye.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2021, 04:39 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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A much safer way to remove rust with no nasty health, or side-effects, is to use 1 part molasses with 10 parts water. Immerse the parts, best in warm water, and allow it to completely remove every speck of rust.

The "now" generation want it to work instantly, so they won't like the fact that really heavy scale can take two weeks to disappear, depending on the water temperature. Patient people will find something else that needs doing,

Cheers Charlie

P.S. It won't kill lawns, or rust things in the workshop, or attack your skin.
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2021, 08:01 PM
norson norson is offline
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My preferred method is molasses, but The neighbors complain about the smell so I switched to Citric acid.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2021, 10:40 PM
2020Presence 2020Presence is offline
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Trying whatever gets the stuff shiny again. All fall subject to the detached gaze of the speed/cost/quality triangle regardless of the immediacy of one's generation.

Looking forward to pulling those running boards out, and not a week too soon!

IMG_20210412_171941.jpg

IMG_20210427_153213.jpg

IMG_20210421_171048.jpg

IMG_20210423_230137.jpg

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Last edited by galooph; 05-01-2021 at 03:06 AM.
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  #16  
Old 05-01-2021, 09:04 AM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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I do all my rust removal with electrolysis.
Best method I have ever used.
Simple and effective.
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  #17  
Old 05-01-2021, 06:57 PM
2020Presence 2020Presence is offline
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I think I'm ready

Electrolysis Rust Removal:

https://www.metaldetectingworld.com/..._removal.shtml


Edit: Link description.
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Last edited by 2020Presence; 05-01-2021 at 07:41 PM.
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2021, 11:18 AM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2020Presence View Post
I think I'm ready

Electrolysis Rust Removal:

https://www.metaldetectingworld.com/..._removal.shtml


Edit: Link description.

I wash all my parts in dish soap after electrolysis rust removal.
Gets rid of the black residue.
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  #19  
Old 05-02-2021, 05:08 PM
2020Presence 2020Presence is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
I wash all my parts in dish soap after electrolysis rust removal.
Gets rid of the black residue.
Awesome, what are u using to power your rig?
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  #20  
Old 05-02-2021, 07:19 PM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2020Presence View Post
Awesome, what are u using to power your rig?

A Diehard 12 volt manual charger. I also have another manual 12 volt charger that I use but I can't find the brand name.
I have had that charger for years.


You want a manual charger that has an amperage gauge in it.
You can regulate the amperage output of the charger by the amount of Borax you put in the water. The more Borax you use the higher the amperage output. Also somewhat faster process with higher amperage. You have to keep your eyes on the process somewhat as the water tends to evaporate faster with higher amperage.


I also like flat clean sheet metal as the sacrificial piece.
I produce lots of scrap trying to make panels



Most of the rust and crap will stick to the side facing the part your de-rusting. Then you can turn it around and use the other side.


Once you get set up and play with the process some I think it is all you will ever use in the future.
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