#1621
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Nice and straight. Well done Jack.
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#1622
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What a journey you've taken us on Jack. I'll be sorry to see it end
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Paul |
#1623
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Now the tedious and seemingly endless list of detail work begins. I started with the interior trim moldings for the windshield frame. Thin stuff, 22ga steel. More time was needed to make the templates than the actual parts. The frame was symmetrical so fortunately I only had to make one template and flip it for the other side.
The center pieces are fairly simple. One down, one to go. These will be upholstered with the same vinyl material I used on the interior door panel.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1624
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Wiring.... Uggh! Onstar and the vanity lights on the visors are in the harness on the windshield frame. I need to get all that straightened out before I close it up with the trim panels. I should be able to wrap this up tomorrow.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1625
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I finished the trim panels and upholstered them with the same material as the rest of the interior. I also glued some scraps on the back side of them to keep the wires from chafing. Next I sorted out the wiring along the top of the windshield and got them strapped down so they're not rattling against the trim.
Visors, mirror, and trim installed and plugged in. The sheet metal screws are temporary. The polished stainless trim that will cover the top surface of the frame will drop down over the upholstered trim and the screws from that will hold both sets of trim down along the back edge.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1626
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I'm starting on the exterior trim for the windshield frame. I have some 24ga 430 stainless #8mirror that I can use. I made a template first. I get the shape I need without the flanges. Then transfer the shape to the steel and add the flanges after. That way, the bend line is exactly where it should be.
I am using a radius edge tipping die in the bead roller to tip the flanges. The thickness of the wheel is .200" with a .100" radius. Notice I drew a line on the center of the radius with a marker. It makes it easier to stay on track. It does wear off after a few passes, but can quickly be redone. After tipping the flanges, I used the shrinker to bring in the curve along the top surface to match the frame. Numerous test fittings til I had it tight against the frame. This is the trim piece. It still has the white plastic protective film on it. One down. It looks OK. I started making the template for the left A pillar. I SHOULD be able to use it for both sides. I'll find out tomorrow.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1627
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Quote:
Nice moves, Jack. (I'm also doing a bit of thin polished work - and keeping the plastic on until the last possible moment - shreds can be my limit !)
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#1628
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Kent, I forgot to mention, I peeled the plastic off the flanges before I started shrinking so it wasn't bad.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1629
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flange
Jack are u putting a flange on both sides of trim and also how will u remove marks from shrinker thx bob
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Bob Risner |
#1630
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Bob, there are flanges on both front and rear edges. There will be a second molding along the front. I have a set of 58 Olds reveal moldings for around the windshield. The rear flange will tuck in behind the upholstered interior trim. Some of that will be visible so I'll have to bump , sand, and polish.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
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