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Old 11-19-2020, 07:58 PM
Mootsman Mootsman is offline
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Location: Memphis, TN
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Default Help me flange a bowl shape

Hello all

This is my first foray into metal shaping so Iím 100% novice

Iím building a rear cowl for a motorcycle and need to create a 1Ē flange all the way around the underside of the cowl.

Iíve beaten and planished the form into its current shape but donít really know where to go from here. I realize there will be a good deal of shrinking involved.

Here are the metal shaping tools I have:

Body/shaping hammers and dollies
Beater bag
Shrinking stump
Tucking forks
Planishing hammer
Bead roller with various dies including tipping dies
Beer

Iím all ears - any advice from the pros would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Shawn

cowl 01.jpg

cowl 02.jpg
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Last edited by galooph; 11-20-2020 at 03:23 AM. Reason: added pics
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Old 11-19-2020, 10:23 PM
BTromblay BTromblay is offline
MetalShaper of the Month August 2018
 
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Location: Mukwonago, Wi
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Hi,

Nice looking part. I would recommend to weld on the flange, then trying to form it. If the flange wasonthe outside, it wouldn't be difficult to make. Shrinking the flange to put on the inside, adds great difficulty as you will run out of space for the quipment to shrink the flange and there would be a lot of material to shrink.

If you decide to weld, I would tip the edge to the inside, then trim to leave a 1/4"ish flange. By welding to the the 1/4" flange, you will minimalize distortion to you formed piece and it would be far enough in from shape, to planish the weld.

Bill
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2020, 12:21 AM
Ryan in Melbourne Ryan in Melbourne is offline
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Looks good.
Edit, cant help as i am a beginner as well.







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Last edited by Ryan in Melbourne; 11-20-2020 at 12:23 AM.
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2020, 04:16 AM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Nov. 2018, Jan. 2021
 
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Looks really good so far Shawn. Pretty much what Bill has suggested, although I would probably just use some flanging pliers to tip the edge rather than trying to get in in a machine. The straighter bits on the sides should just flange and after an anneal, shrink manually - small tucking fork. Although if you have made a buck with a decent base, it may even tap down onto the base - some flexible strips around the outside to clamp it. Further towards the back where the requirement to shrink is more pronounced, I go with Bill's idea and trim back to a smaller flange, turn, shrink etc... and then cut a crescent shaped strip to weld in. If you could get away with a flange less than an inch, I'd try and turn it in one piece. Good luck.

What is is going on?
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Old 11-20-2020, 06:50 AM
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MP&C MP&C is offline
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Many ways to town, which road to take? A lot will depend on your tools available and personal skills. Me, I like a good challenge and do things the hard way on occasion.. Plus I have a kick shrinker here that has the dies that drop off (not flat across the face) so the radius would not be as much an issue. And since I can't weld as nicely as Bill, for some reason that option falls lower on my lean toward scale.. But in all fairness, as David Gardiner has pointed out many times, a weld seam in the case of a complex shape not only makes the job easier but also much quicker..

As Richard suggested, a slightly smaller flange (3/4"??) would be much less work than adding that extra bit to make it 1". So does it need to be that wide? Also, does the flange need to be bent in at a 90* or can it go higher than that? Higher up inside would require less shrinking overall.
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