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  #121  
Old 11-04-2015, 08:09 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I managed to get the trunk floor welded in without warping it. I had to cover it with a coat of spray bomb enamel. The weather is changing and bare metal doesn't last long around here. I'll have the rear body buck in for probably a couple months so I wouldn't be able to paint it later if it started rusting.

When the time comes to put the epoxy primer on the body, I can just wipe this junk paint off with some lacquer thinner and a rag.

Tomorrow I'll get the backbone of the buck back in the car and continue plotting out the station locations and shapes.

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  #122  
Old 11-05-2015, 12:30 AM
sblack sblack is offline
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Where does one get dimensioned chassis drawings like that?
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  #123  
Old 11-05-2015, 07:27 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Scott, if you are talking about the CTS frame specs, these are from the Mitchell Collision Repair Charts. I work in a Dealeship body shop. The frame repair system has computer specs and printed sheets. If you know someone that works at a well equipped body shop you can ask them to print out a copy for you. As for the 49 Cadillac frame specs, a guy on HAMB shared them with me. Those aren't very detailed but there's enough there for what I'm doing.
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  #124  
Old 11-06-2015, 08:50 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I need some input. I was originally considering making my buck stations so they would mount to the backbone at 90 degrees from horizontal thinking that would make it easier to measure and place them accurately. After thinking more about it, I think I should mount them perpendicular to the top contour. I've seen bucks built both ways. My thoughts are that it would be easier to shape them if they are perpendicular to the skin. The arcs formed would be slightly different. Best way I can describe it is; take a coffee cup and set it on the table, trace a line on the table half way around the cup, then tilt the cup about 10 degrees. The radius is different. If you had a spot light overhead, the shadow would be different from the line drawn on the table..

I think I would rather take a little more time locating and mounting the stations in an attempt to get a more accurate shape. Am I missing anything? It seems that the bucks I've seen built with vertical stations have mostly been full body bucks. The others, for smaller parts with more shape. A great example would be the rear fender buck for a 36 Ford built by Ron Covell. Anyway, I'm starting over the weekend so any input would be appreciated.
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  #125  
Old 11-06-2015, 10:13 AM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
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Jack, when I built mine, I used a 15" inline sander to fair the stations. So long as I worked across 3 stations, the contour evolved and some low spots also. My stations were vertical, so I had a bit fairing. But, it also tended to lessen the low spots. I remembered to check the low edge when fitting panels.

When I cut my wooden stations, both sides were fastened together and sawn at the same time. This produced exact copies, helping to ensure symmetry. If the angle of your surface varies per length of station, you'll be doing some fairing or pretty complex saw work.

Angled stations will work fine. A little more work setting up front versus more work finalizing.
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  #126  
Old 11-06-2015, 06:45 PM
rivetdriver rivetdriver is offline
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Jack
I prefer to make them perpendicular to the shape.
To me it makes it easier to visualize the part and actually use the buck for shaping.
You`ll spend probably the same time trying to sand/grind the shape into the other buck compared to locating the stations on a perpendicular.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 11-06-2015 at 07:13 PM.
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  #127  
Old 11-06-2015, 08:49 PM
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Thanks for the help, guys. Nice bucks, Marcus. Is that top one foam board?
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  #128  
Old 11-07-2015, 08:48 PM
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I started on the rear body buck today. Most of the time spent was on measuring,checking plumb and square, check it again, etc.. Everything measures out right, surprisingly within 1/16" so I mounted the rear part of the buck to the back of the trunk floor and started building at the back.

This is slow fussy work but I'm making progress.

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  #129  
Old 11-07-2015, 10:05 PM
rivetdriver rivetdriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Thanks for the help, guys. Nice bucks, Marcus. Is that top one foam board?
Yes it is .
I had to ship it --so I made it light
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  #130  
Old 11-08-2015, 09:24 AM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
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Looks good Jack! So long as it makes sense to you, that's all that is needed.
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