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Excellent work on the floor panel Tom. Your tutorial is very nice and I want congratulate you on being awarded the MSOM award. I want to make sure that I understand the sequence of your work. I envision it as follows:
Insert your lower bead tool in the lower anvil holder of your English wheel. The sheet metal went on top or that the 3/8" plywood pattern on top of that a reinforcing piece of wood on top of that Then bring down the top E-wheel How did you attach/fasten the sheet metal to the plywood pattern? Is the width of the arch on the bead tool the same width as the opening in the plywood pattern? Did I understand that you would have preferred to incrementally increase the depth of ALL the 'grooves' at the same time?
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Will |
#42
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Where did that come from, thanks guys just proves that it doesn't need to be complicated.
Will, it's was clamped together with Gees, otherwise you are spot on. Bring the wheel down pass over all form and go again. I would add that I am running a 2" wheel, if you have a 3"/4" upper you would only have a problem going over the intersections, you need to stand on your head until you've got the form going then it's a breeze. Thanks again
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Tom Poulter Follow the Dream - Sideways - - But don't fall-off the edge 'good to know you guys care' https://ctrestorations.com/ Last edited by Z5Roadster; 07-03-2014 at 01:11 PM. Reason: Added last line |
#43
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Congrats Tom.
Excellent floor pan. Your write up and pics were well documented. Thanks. |
#44
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Thanks Pugsy, means a lot and shows that I must be doing something right or at it's of interest to members. With a narrower anvil it would be applicable to a floor pan, firewall etc. if youv'e not got the luxury of a Pulmax.
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Tom Poulter Follow the Dream - Sideways - - But don't fall-off the edge 'good to know you guys care' https://ctrestorations.com/ |
#45
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Quote:
Don't know if the price was right, but they're not available too often. |
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Sidemount Covers
Been away for awhile but back with another problem. The Sidemount Covers I have are not a pair, one is correct but at this stage not sure which hand it is.
The one on the right of pic 1 is correct, cutting the center out need to be 1/2" smaller than the finished hole and the returned inside to give approx. 3/16" lip. I have a rubbish Chinese bead roller that is too big to be able to turn the handle unless I remove the crank and turn it over with a spanner. Looking for suggestion on how to achieve an acceptable result. Thanks
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Tom Poulter Follow the Dream - Sideways - - But don't fall-off the edge 'good to know you guys care' https://ctrestorations.com/ |
#47
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I solved a similar problem in this thread. Maybe it'll give you some an idea.
https://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=19899
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Jaroslav |
#48
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Thank you Jaro, I will try and put a little of your experience into practice, only thing different, I only have one of these and being the customer I don't have the same pressure or time frame to meet.
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Tom Poulter Follow the Dream - Sideways - - But don't fall-off the edge 'good to know you guys care' https://ctrestorations.com/ |
#49
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Just over a year since I last posted but as we all know sometimes life takes over and problem take priority.
Has been a slow year on my PD but progress has been made, after finishing those sidemount covers I found that the new rubber I had bought (this is just the tire without rim) would not allow the 2 halves of the cover to close. Not been down this road before so perhaps they will be alright once inflated. Good thing is that the body is in colour, vinyl roof insert is in as well as the interior with he exception of fitting the door cards but that's because I have no glass and trying to curb my outgoings. Have also made a set of windshield hinges for my Plymouth PE Pickup by copying the PD hinges before doing a trial fit of the screen. Be forever thankful to Jim Hery for the help he gave me to amass a ton of spares and then ran them down to Houston before the truck was shipped. Jim will email you shortly. Thank you. Hood still in primer due to a split from the centre hinge that appeared during the first fit, once stripped I intend to drill a hole at the end of the split, back-up with a second thickness and weld to make good. Old English White with Copper Bronze (which isn't correct for back in the day) The only way I could put the pin stripe in was to put fine line tape on the primer, spray the bronze, remove the fine line and then mask off the bronze, once the gold was dry, remove the masking and then clear coat. My interpretation of the cover piece between the rear fenders and the gas tank cover.
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Tom Poulter Follow the Dream - Sideways - - But don't fall-off the edge 'good to know you guys care' https://ctrestorations.com/ |
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