All MetalShaping

Go Back   All MetalShaping > Metal Shaping Projects > Automotive Projects
  Today's Posts Posts for Last 7 Days Posts for Last 14 Days  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1041  
Old 07-29-2019, 12:07 AM
Don Papenburg Don Papenburg is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: LaSalle county Illinois , USA
Posts: 99
Default

I like the fender under the cab look as in the last pic.
military crate for a fridge cover would look great.

a cover made from canvas draped over items that fit above the rails or bows fixed to the top height of the box would be a temp fix for road trips .
Pull the canvas tight and mix up some polyester resin or epoxy resin and pour it over the canvas and work it in to an even film that shows the cloth fibers .
When it hardens turnit over and add a couple layers of glass mat and resin . Woven fiberglass cloth would work good on the top layer inplace of a canvas, if you can get some that width and length.
then a frame and hinges and electric lifts .
__________________
Don Papenburg
Reply With Quote
  #1042  
Old 07-30-2019, 01:37 AM
touringgarage touringgarage is offline
MetalShaper of the Month September 2014, April 2019
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Austria
Posts: 264
Default

Big Respect for your Energie.

Absolute Limit on Perfection.

Extremely complex Project.

WOW
__________________
Bernhard
Reply With Quote
  #1043  
Old 07-30-2019, 05:40 AM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default

Sorry for all the mockups but have commited now to moving the cross member back 2" to fit either sized spare in underneath. So the mock ups were good enough for me to be confident that something will work out in the end. Here is a couple more.


Removed the labels on the cardboard and the centre stake pocket to see if it improved the appearance of symmetry. I do think the longer back section looks less obvious now? Removing the centre stake pocket would mean bolting through the side to hold the top of the guard on, showing a bolt head on the inside like the Fords and Chevys, rather than to the underside of the stake pocket that the Willys had. Seeing a button head bolt might be a small price to pay though.


Cardboard labels gone and the centre stake and steps back in. I think it was a bit off centre before too.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
Reply With Quote
  #1044  
Old 07-30-2019, 06:14 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
MetalShaper of the Month April 2020, September 2021, November 2022
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 2,601
Default

Don't worry about the length of the platform. I had this truck and the larger half of the platform was behind the axis.

I see you're approaching color.

Name:  dsc047301.jpg
Views: 1292
Size:  26.7 KB
__________________
Jaroslav
Reply With Quote
  #1045  
Old 08-03-2019, 07:19 AM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default


Decided to extend the chassis to take the spare wheel. I had to add what was lost with the 100mm-4" step I put in as well. I turned the heat up to get good penetration.


Crossmember welded back in place.


I cut out a spare wheel carrier with a cable winch on it. Even though the winch just unbolts, I took the whole cross member to use. It was however setup for an offset wheel so the exhaust could run down one side of it.


This setup came from a 2001-2006 Hyundai Santa Fe 4wd. I cut the ends off the cross member, with one side longer than the other, and swapped ends to centre the winch cable.


I also recessed the tyre supports an extra 13mm-1/2" to get the wheel up as much as possible. From two Santa Fe's I cut the short tyre supports as well.


All welded into place


I chose a cable tyre winch over the chain type as the latter rattle the excess chain around. The donor Grand Cherokee had a cable one as well, but the winding point was accessed through the floor and I didn't want that.


This is a 235/80R17 tyre which is 31.5" tall. I only left 5mm-3/16" each side to spare to get it in easier. I still need to get a matching Hyundai jack handle, or make one, to operate it. The wrecking yard throws them away so no one can use jacks in the yard.


It tucks up nicely out of the way and won't be seen from the side once the frame skirts go on. You can see I have raised it 50mm-2" higher than the top of the chassis. I did this for extra ground clearance when offroading and that the crank handle doesn't have to pass right through the rear cross member. This is also the height of the floor supports for the bed, so it doesn't take any extra space.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
Reply With Quote
  #1046  
Old 08-07-2019, 07:26 AM
sandmanred sandmanred is offline
MetalShaper of the Month July 2017, Sept 2022
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 296
Default

Wow, incredible work!
__________________
Jeff
Reply With Quote
  #1047  
Old 08-08-2019, 04:19 AM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandmanred View Post
Wow, incredible work!
Thank you Jeff.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
Reply With Quote
  #1048  
Old 08-08-2019, 08:24 PM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default


Well, the exhaust cannot run out the middle as per the factory centre outlets of the SRT model that the system was made for. I still had the factory single stainless system which is the same diameter, 70mm-2.75", as just one of the new pipes.


Re-routing the right side was easy as I only had to cut and flip the exhaust over. I used the left side dogleg instead as it reached over further to where I wanted it.


It looks odd sitting out that far at the moment, but the chassis had been narrowed to fit the donor suspension in the right place. The bed will actually be wider than stock and cover the rear muffler and will be behind the frame skirts.


So with the muffler on the left placed to match the other side, I just have to get it across. First have to clear the pinion flange, top of the diff and sway bar at full suspension compression. Then turn before hitting the left side upper control arm bracket, under the cross member before going through a hole in the next, miss the shock absorber and then line up with the back of the muffler!


I cut the exhaust off just before the last bend and also found a section from the original system that lines up with a hole in the panhard bar support cross member and the muffler. Just have these bends left to complete the system.


Using one of the bends from the right side dogleg and the rest of the original system gets me pretty close. I am just using hose clamps to keep things in place while mocking up.


I am just going to fuse weld the system together using the tig. 1.6mm-16 gauge lanthanated tungsten to match the same gauge tubing wall thickness.


I just draw a straight line using a ruler over the hose clamps before disassembly. Better than small marks as you can make sure the line is still straight after tacking in case it wasn't butted up square.


I have used a paint strip disc to clean the old stainless and also the welds. If you don't clean the welds, either mechanically or with acid to pacify them, it will rust there.


Just had to meet the two sections together between the cross members. Needed a slight bend. I measured the furthest and narrowest side of the gap and found a bend that would match it. I used hose clamps as a guide to draw my cut lines around making sure they match the smallest and largest measurements.


The bend lined up first go using this method so will tack it in place in situ to make sure it all lines up after welding.


Have the two hangers in place with two more to go after the mufflers. It worked out better than I expected actually as was going to buy new bends, but actually had to use every little factory bend to clear everything and was the only routing that I could have taken. From this view it looks like I could have just taken a 90* bend after the cross member and then run in front of the tyre before going down the the muffler on the other side. But there just isn't the room as the diff would have hit it at full compression and the panhard cross member is deep on the left side.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
Reply With Quote
  #1049  
Old 08-08-2019, 11:29 PM
blue62 blue62 is online now
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Woodland Wa.
Posts: 315
Default

I like your use of the hose clamps to get a good guide line.
I will remember that, thanks for posting it. Neat trick
__________________
Dave Bradbury
Reply With Quote
  #1050  
Old 08-09-2019, 04:23 AM
Larry4406 Larry4406 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 138
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
I like your use of the hose clamps to get a good guide line.
I will remember that, thanks for posting it. Neat trick
I agree! Very clever and a master at reusing the exhaust parts.
__________________
Larry
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:44 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.