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Old 07-22-2020, 10:35 AM
Schroeder Schroeder is offline
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Default Flares for 77TA

Any idea based off these pictures why I can't get the flare's OD to cut in and set flush with the car below the body line? I think I need some deep shrinking at the line marked 1 on the blue tape. I don't have a deep shrinker. Should I make a long tuck up to the flare's tipped edge- being more aggressive at the OD and feathering out to nothing at the tipped edge?

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Old 07-22-2020, 12:30 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Any idea based off these pictures why I can't get the flare's OD to cut in and set flush with the car below the body line? I think I need some deep shrinking at the line marked 1 on the blue tape. I don't have a deep shrinker. Should I make a long tuck up to the flare's tipped edge- being more aggressive at the OD and feathering out to nothing at the tipped edge?

Hi Jordan,
Just so the rest of us know .....
What flavor metal are you using in the photos? Thickness?
(It's not clearly obvious to spectators, oddly enough. )
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Old 07-22-2020, 12:37 PM
Schroeder Schroeder is offline
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My bad. This is 19ga AKDQ cold roll steel. It is .035-.038" thick when measured with a calipers if I remember correctly. I love the stuff and recommend it to anyone looking to try something new!

I have a very helpful "mentor" of sorts I consult on another forum. He has suggested I make it out of multiple pieces, and that's what I'm beginning to concede to. I thought I'd just ask here too though to get some more eyes on it. If I go this route I guess I'll just have to cut it at the body line and splice together accordingly.
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Last edited by Schroeder; 07-22-2020 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 07-22-2020, 01:32 PM
Rick Mullin Rick Mullin is offline
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The first thing my eyes focused on was the pucker around the vise-grips holding the panel onto the arch. If the clamps are pulling the arch in hard enough to distort the line, that tells me that the panel (at least the upper portion) needs to move in. That would require more stretch around the perimeter where it meets the main panel. If the top moves in, that may help the fit of the lower area as well.

It is not uncommon on coachbuilt vehicles to see panels split through the center of an arc. If it easier to maneuver the panel in two pieces, I would suggest cutting and repositioning as needed and butt welding it back together. There is no singular correct way to make a panel.
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Old 07-22-2020, 01:48 PM
Schroeder Schroeder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Mullin View Post
The first thing my eyes focused on was the pucker around the vise-grips holding the panel onto the arch. If the clamps are pulling the arch in hard enough to distort the line, that tells me that the panel (at least the upper portion) needs to move in. That would require more stretch around the perimeter where it meets the main panel. If the top moves in, that may help the fit of the lower area as well.

It is not uncommon on coachbuilt vehicles to see panels split through the center of an arc. If it easier to maneuver the panel in two pieces, I would suggest cutting and repositioning as needed and butt welding it back together. There is no singular correct way to make a panel.
I believe the pucker you are talking about is the one with a piece of tape by it that says "2." I thought this could be remedied with a quick shrink. I will try english wheeling the perimeter OD though too. I have been instructed to put a slight reverse curve there anyway. You think this might make it set more flush on the quarter?
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Old 07-22-2020, 04:15 PM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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I think you smal shaped you must a little more. It can be made from one piece. Why cut it ?
Maybe the bent L-shaped edge direction near the car would help you, which you will cut off after shaping. It will keep your shape and it will not this piece twist in all directions.
Look to my thread.




http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18279
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Old 07-22-2020, 06:26 PM
Schroeder Schroeder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaroslav View Post
I think you smal shaped you must a little more. It can be made from one piece. Why cut it ?
Maybe the bent L-shaped edge direction near the car would help you, which you will cut off after shaping. It will keep your shape and it will not this piece twist in all directions.
Look to my thread.




http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18279

Wow awesome thread. I don't have as good of a buck as you do. It's decent though. What do you mean by I should "smal shape a little more"?
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Old 07-23-2020, 01:04 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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This is not about money. I have good equipment, but without understanding the direction of the sheet metal fibers you will do nothing.
Take your time. You do must will shaping more. You will succeed. Bend the hem upwards, where you want to weld it, then cut it.
You have to try. Definitely don't give up. And don't accept stupid cutting advice.
My friend has minimal equipment and does great things. He always laughs at me. But he has been doing the same work for 20 years. The same type of car. He can't even see it anymore.


I made rear fenders in this thread. Learn paper template. You will see the shaping directions. You will use 1 template for both sides. A bent hem, up or down will keep you in shape. Then you can cut.

It is written in fairy tales that the directly road leads to hell. Think about future technological steps. Good luck.



http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18867
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Last edited by Jaroslav; 07-23-2020 at 01:20 AM.
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Old 07-23-2020, 04:33 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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I found a photos of the shaping process if that helps.




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Only at this point will you use EW for the first time.
If you have the right paper template, success is at hand.
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Last edited by Jaroslav; 07-23-2020 at 04:38 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-23-2020, 06:09 AM
Schroeder Schroeder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaroslav View Post
I found a photos of the shaping process if that helps.




Attachment 56907

Attachment 56908


Only at this point will you use EW for the first time.
If you have the right paper template, success is at hand.
Attachment 56912


Attachment 56909

Attachment 56910

Attachment 56911


thanks again for the awesome replies and information. I looked over your thread of the fender on the toy car. It looks great. It looks like on that job you did a lot of deep shrinking. I do not have any tools that can reach that deep. I only have a basic shrinker and stretcher. I am attempting to deep shrink like you did with a tuck fork. Then I smash the tuck with my planishing hammer. I did a little bit of this last night, and I think it worked. The flare is now closer to the car at the body line behind the wheel well opening. See the attached pictures.

Please also see the close pictures of the front face of the flare. This is the first tipped edge. I have shrink and stretched it a lot. Does it appear to be too much? I know after so much of this the metal rips. There is also a picture of a dent in my tipped edge. How should I correct this? Do I just take it through the bead roller again?


You have mentioned tipping the edge up and then trimming. Are you talking about the inner fender lip which will be the second and final tipped edge at the wheel well opening? Are you suggesting I do that now?

I have used a tape template. The template was made of three layers of painters tape. It does show some wrinkles and ripples in it to indicate shrinking and stretching, but it is not as good as your thin paper template. Do I need to get some of this paper?

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Here for my '77 Trans Am

Last edited by Schroeder; 07-23-2020 at 08:27 AM.
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