#1791
|
|||
|
|||
Great Job Jack!
Jack it is really nice. The posts are great. Fred26T.
__________________
Fred26T |
#1792
|
||||
|
||||
OK Jack, when are you going to take it outside and make some glamor shots. Just when I think you can't do better....you do!
Everyone who has viewed this thread....all nearly 650,000 times is better because of what you have showed us. Thank you is woefully inadequate for what you have contributed. World class stuff!
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton |
#1793
|
|||
|
|||
I second Kerry's thoughts
Fantastic stuff!
__________________
John Ron Covell, Autofuturist books (Tim Barton/Bill Longyard) and Kent White metalshaping DVD's available, shipped from the US. Contact lane@mountainhouseestate.com for price and availability. |
#1794
|
||||
|
||||
Hey Guys, I need some help. I'm having trouble getting help with the electronics on this pile. I had a guy (John) that was willing and very sharp. He came out once to get started. He made some progress but he's slammed at his job, working 6 days/week so his time is limited or non existent.
If anyone out there knows of a service tech with an up to date scanner, that's near the Cleveland, Ohio area please see if he's willing to help me out. I'll pay for his time, I'm not looking for a handout. I need someone with a scanner and current updates. The grouping for the CTS updates is 2008 to 2016. Prefer a tech familiar with GM and with strong diagnostic skills. Problems include clear and reset Vehicle Antitheft Immobilizer, U100 DTC (ECM - BCM Comms) I have not altered or butchered anything in the electronics or harness other than deleting the side curtain air bags which is peripheral and was done right. John was able to crank the starter using his scanner so I know that it still functions. I double checked and triple checked every ground and service connector. Welded bungs or nuts to the floorboards and frame for solid grounds. The body and frame are grounded to each other with six 8ga wires. Everything was done right. At the moment, I'm partially locked out. No Crank/Start. Shift lockout, Door latches Inop, Power windows Inop. What's encouraging is that I had all this stuff operating. After I got the left window regulator set up, I went to the right side to do that one and power was gone. I think the problem finding help is that all the shops are slammed. There are not many younger guys coming in to replace us retirees. Another thing is that most techs don't want to do side jobs. I understand that. When I was working, I never did side jobs. If I needed some extra cash I just doubled down at work. Anyway, that's where I'm at right now. As soon as I get these electronics sorted out I'm ready to road test. I still have some smaller stuff to attend to but I want to fire this thing up and see what's up while the weather is still decent. So, if anyone has a friend or acquaintance with the skills involved please ask them to contact me. Best way is right here on the forum. PM or just post on this thread. Thanks.
__________________
Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 07-27-2021 at 11:05 AM. |
#1795
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thank You Jack So Much for taking the time !
__________________
Skip Wilson Last edited by Sprint Relic; 07-27-2021 at 11:20 AM. |
#1796
|
||||
|
||||
Super detailer and long time friend of mine, Mike Eady stopped over Monday to throw a megashine on the Cadillac. Over the years he has constantly followed the progression of detailing products and tests them and decides whether they're crap or keepers.
He recently started using Glare Products instead of ceramics. Performance is head and shoulders above ceramics. We both had orbital buffers so we attacked it together. I think it took us between 2 and 3 hours to complete the process. Outstanding results. The difference probably isn't noticeable in pictures, but it's noticeable in person. You be the judge. I put the roof back on for what I thought would be the last time and adjusted the latches for a snug fit, but I'm not really satisfied with it. The rubber seals that go over the windshield and around the rear perimeter are too thick. I thought they were soft enough and would squish down when the roof was clamped down, but they didn't. I'll have to take the roof back off and change the seals. You can see that the seal is doing its job, but it's too thick. The roof stands too high off the body. I need to get it down about 3/8". I don't want the edge contacting the body. A small gap, less than 1/4" will be good.
__________________
Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1797
|
||||
|
||||
It is looking outstanding Jack.
__________________
Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1798
|
|||
|
|||
One clue to the quality of the shine is the clarity of the reflection of the photographer!
Maybe a quick rundown of the preferred system and it's components?
__________________
Marc |
#1799
|
||||
|
||||
This was a fresh paint job so some of the prep steps were skipped. Clean the surfaces with soap and water, then use a clay bar to get imbedded dirt and grit off, then wipe the car off with a mixture of distilled or filtered water and 20% isopropyl alcohol. We used Glare Plus (Glare+) Polish on this one. Use a variable speed orbital buffer on low speed to spread out a few drops evenly on the panel, then bump the speed up to medium high and apply moderate pressure with a medium density foam pad. Do one panel at a time. A little polish goes a long way. Keep working the surface moving in crosshatch patterns. The polish stays wet for about 5 or 10 minutes,then just powders up and wipes away with a microfiber cloth.
This is where most of the work is done so don't shortcut this first step. When the whole car is done, switch to a soft foam finishing pad and repeat the process but don't apply pressure this time and don't keep working the surface until the polish dries up. Light pressure for a couple minutes spreading it evenly then stop and let the polish set for about 20 minutes to dry on the car. Wipe the haze off with a microfiber cloth and you're done. This second application is similar to what you would do if you were waxing the car. This product is glass infused and there is a lot of chemistry that's beyond me involved. The big benefit is the thermal breakdown temperature; 500°!!! Wax breaks down at about 90°, ceramic at about 180°. Glare has a website with all the info and videos that explain everything. As I said, most of it is beyond me. Mike is the seasoned expert. His word is good enough for me. I think We were using a 6oz bottle and didn't even use half of it . Probably 2 to 3 ounces. A little goes a long way.
__________________
Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 08-05-2021 at 01:16 PM. |
#1800
|
|||
|
|||
That car is spectacular!!
__________________
Dave |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|