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  #11  
Old 03-14-2020, 07:58 AM
ken from Peterborough ken from Peterborough is offline
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Thank you Kent, Clifford, Chris for your comments , in fact I should thank you all for your thoughts.

Kent, thank you for your explanation on how it is done with simple tools, I have only been working with copper for a year or so but I soon realized wood anvils, hammers, mallets are more forgiving than metal, and also thin roofing copper can be manipulated easier than I thought, your method will be how I'll approach my next project so thanks for taking the time to put it all in words.

Clifford, my very next project is to make a tree stump anvil, my lack of experience or should I say my ignorance gave me the freedom to try anything and everything I could get my hands on .

Chris, as a newbie I appreciate being here to learn what tools to use and more importantly what tools to avoid, I'm grateful for the heads up I received on what method and what tool(s) will get me closer to where I need to be, I appreciate your help .
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  #12  
Old 03-14-2020, 08:07 AM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr fixit View Post
There you go beginners like me, the experts have spoken.

It sounds like the shrinking hammer is for some but not the majority, I for 1 am glad I went with the Lancaster-type shrinker as it does a cool job for the applications I've used it in.

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"Shrinking" hammer and "shrinking" dolly are for no one. Completely useless. It doesn't shrink anything but the cash in your wallet that it cost you. If you have one best thing you can do is grind the waffles off and use it as a regular body hammer.
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  #13  
Old 03-14-2020, 04:36 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Hi Ken,
Here is an example of making a part by shrinking by hand - and also by using a simple aluminum form to work against - as an anvil. The two blocks clamp together leaving the copper edge exposed, and that is worked down 90deg by making the ruffles and trapping them with a little wood mallet.



P1010014 copy.jpg


The finished one is also included, and though not shown visible here, the back side has the triangles very visible in the surface of the metal.
The finish shows no evidence of working, and the edge is of uniform thickness as shrinking increases thickness, allowing for a little removal during the finishing process. (note: "metal finishing" = removing surface irregularities by filing, sanding, grinding, polishing)
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  #14  
Old 03-14-2020, 06:27 PM
ken from Peterborough ken from Peterborough is offline
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That's great way of using molds for forming copper, I have a few of these forming anvils made already but out of hard wood. plywood ,2x4s but the best seems to be Aluminum, it is easy to file or machine to the desired shape.
Thank you for taking the time to post pictures and explain your method.

If I still worked in my old job I would have had access to waterjet machines and all kinds of scrap steel, it would have been ideal to make these forming tools .

I'm still not allowed to post pictures or links but I'm working on a hand made version of a lantern, if you google Anchor ship lamp or Anchor copper lantern, you'll have an idea what I'm trying to achieve.
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  #15  
Old 03-14-2020, 07:06 PM
ken from Peterborough ken from Peterborough is offline
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I just read how to post photos and it looks like it worked.
570440102_xl.png - Copy.jpg

unnamed.jpg
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  #16  
Old 03-15-2020, 02:53 AM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is online now
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Hi Ken
Most of the pieces could be made by spinning them.
A wood lathe would even work for light metal spinning if you were so inclined.
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  #17  
Old 03-15-2020, 07:58 AM
ken from Peterborough ken from Peterborough is offline
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Originally Posted by steve.murphy View Post
Hi Ken
Most of the pieces could be made by spinning them.
A wood lathe would even work for light metal spinning if you were so inclined.
Hi Steve, Yeah that's one way , I have seen that spinning process here and there but have no personal experience , don't even know where to begin ,what tools to make/buy etc.
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  #18  
Old 03-15-2020, 02:23 PM
Brzeczyszczykiewicz Brzeczyszczykiewicz is offline
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It all depends on how many lamps you want to make. It's best to commission someone to make rotating parts. You can also learn everything yourself. It took me some time to shape the metal sheet, and I order larger parts anyway. Photos will show in a new topic.
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  #19  
Old 03-15-2020, 04:03 PM
ken from Peterborough ken from Peterborough is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brzeczyszczykiewicz View Post
It all depends on how many lamps you want to make. It's best to commission someone to make rotating parts. You can also learn everything yourself. It took me some time to shape the metal sheet, and I order larger parts anyway. Photos will show in a new topic.
Thank you for your thought and comment. I only make one item at a time and usually don't repeat the same project.
The whole point of doing this, is to learn new methods, different ways of achieving the same goal, I'm retired and this is my hobby.
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  #20  
Old 03-15-2020, 04:05 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken from Peterborough View Post
Hi Steve, Yeah that's one way , I have seen that spinning process here and there but have no personal experience , don't even know where to begin ,what tools to make/buy etc.

Most start by buying a "spinning lathe," and probably not an automatic one.
Find some spinning tools.

Then get a half-inch carriage bolt, chuck it up and spin a copper cover over the head of it. Then a brass one. Then a steel one. Then a stainless one.
Then make a simple one-piece wood die, and spin a part from that.

And so on.


It's fun to do brass lamps / or lanterns.
White 649 copy.jpg
White 3 copy.jpg
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