#11
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Look closely at the 3 washers on the nose of the snake. You can see the tack welds. It looks as though they are all welded in the same spot so that the next row of washers cover the welds. The ones on the nose would have been the last row.
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Josh Wilson "If you're not living on the edge then you're just taking up space" |
#12
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Quote:
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Richard When I die heaven can wait, I want to go to McMaster-Carr. My sculpture web page http://www.fantaciworks.com |
#13
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molds that supoort welding heat
Hey guys,
This topic is exactly what I was looking for. Couldn't find anything on the Internet. Anyone have made any real life testing welding over a mold ? I mean, does plaster holds to the welding heat ? Should I make molds of cement for this ?
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Thanks, Fernando. |
#14
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I have no 'hands on' for welding on plaster but do some Metalart work. I would just give it a try. It depends a lot on the steel, welding type, heat imput, ect. And it also depends on work you want to do. Is the plaster only for the mold and will it be used one time? Or is it be used multiple times or does it stay inside the steel structure.
I mean, you can put plaster in a oven and bake it to high temp right? To fast temperature changes will cause cracks but for a one time mold thats not a problem. BTW, sometimes I use wood for a mold for welding or plasma cutting (that I use only one time) and put aluminum tape on it not to burn it. You can also try that.
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Bart Harkema |
#15
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Couple thoughts since my original post in this thread several years ago...
On Monique http://allmetalshaping.com/showthrea...hlight=Monique H 054.jpg I made flexible shape patterns off the mannequin after I modified her shape to make a more mature model, shaped to fit, trimmed adjacent pieces to fit in proper arrangement on the mannequin, tacked with tig, confirmed arrangement, then welded. I did not tack on the mannequin but could have. Lots of photos of the process are in the above thread...especially on page 7. She currently has both arms but still no hands or legs below the knees. The company that made the mannequin pulls real silicone molds off humans. The model was apparently about 18 so I aged her with bondo as appropriate.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#16
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Gentlemen, you have the courage to show original inspiration for artwork for produce your creations.
Or they have traces of hands and welding ??? Perhaps it would be fun to level the round pads on the girl's body. I'll have to try. I do not know whether I will be praised at home for my skill.
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Jaroslav |
#17
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I was thinking about tacking scrap metal with a lot of welding, so I am worried about mold heat resistance. I will TIG it. Take for instance a heart made of besants. I want to weld from inside, so would take a negative mold. I'll try something and post here (not really sure when, though)
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Thanks, Fernando. |
#18
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Quote:
The aluminum foil (or tape) is something I'll try for sure if mold is not heat resistant.
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Thanks, Fernando. |
#19
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Here is a cool video by artist Stephen Fitz-Gerald explaining his technique on how to weld up a torso metal sculpture using steel lazer cutting drops:
https://youtu.be/pRP5MiQXBSM
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Tom |
#20
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I have a small answer to this issue.
My solution was to first make a form, and then use that to weld against. Previously I was able to acquire huge stumps of wood, like 1.5 meter tall and at least as big around, and I would use a chain saw to make faces, sort of Easter Island style . Obviously it was fairly rough, but I wasn’t looking for high resolution. I found a supply of 2“ by 1/4“ washers and basically pounded them to shape over the wooden head and Mig welded them together. Sometimes I would get them painted at a friend‘s auto painting shop. Clear coat. Here in Swiss I don’t have Access to those same pieces of wood, nor to the easy metal. I kept the form idea but instead I bought several large pieces of like, 4“ thick rigid foam insulation. I boxed them together into a big cube and carved a face out of the foam instead. But of course one cannot weld on the foam (too well, at least I can’t) so instead I covered the finished foam first in several layers of tin foil, then a thick layer of automotive fiberglass and resin. I could then pull off the fiberglass, and that became a face form in negative. I could then weld on the inside of the fiberglass.. the tin foil and glass kept the burning to a bare minimum. And the welds were then on the back. For metal pieces I went to the local Home Depot equivalent here and bought 3-500 stainless steel washers, usually about 1.5 mm thick. Or I would get a whole ton of stainless #10 nuts. When I can find a host, I’ll post some pics. Anyway long story short, (too late) that was my solution. I came here looking for a way to make body forms. Faces are easy compared to torsos. Lg, Jason
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Jason |
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