#1501
|
|||
|
|||
How will you colour change the pockets.
I've used Vinyl spray in the past and it a little bit more than useless. I'd be interested to overcome the colour wearing off on higher used parts. |
#1502
|
||||
|
||||
Using a special plastic primer as found the vinyl die type sprays are not great on plastic.
__________________
Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1503
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The sign had a full aluminium lighting box and frame around it as well. Used just about all the aluminium up over the years for different things.
__________________
Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1504
|
||||
|
||||
With no new cases of the dreaded COVID for a couple of months in our state, could finally take off and go camping for most of December.
Was just what we needed having not been allowed to go anywhere for awhile. Back on the build again with more enthusiasm. If you look carefully you can see how much narrower the stock rear window is! I have to make a new template and gasket to suit the 273mm-10.5" wider window. I bought these PVC pipe cutters from ALDI to cut the rubber gaskets. Being supported on both sides of the cutting blade, it stops the rubber distorting more on one side than the other. I make a squared line around the gasket and line up the blade and the middle of the jaws at the bottom. It cuts slowly so you can make sure it is following the line. Dale Bates, who makes brass windscreen frames for a living, put me onto using this specific Loctite for joining the rubber. Careful as there are two versions of 424. You need the check the part number in the smaller print which says 42423 which is for difficult to bond rubber. I used some mdf the same thickness as the glass to hold everything square. Kept it away from the ends a bit because this glue will bond that mdf into place as well otherwise. You get one go with this only! No moving it around for a second or two even. So I came in on an angle, lining up one edge before straightening up the faces. I practised with some scraps first! I wrapped some cord around the channel and roped it in place. I was able to tilt the top in first with the gasket going over the pinch weld. You always pull the cord directly away from the edge and can rotate it in circles when going around the corners. I have done quite a few windows like this before but had problems with this gasket. It would keep tearing regardless of all the tricks to stop it. I had imported this from the USA under the part number used by one the the American manufactures. Turns out the seller was selling cheap, I presume, Chinese made rubber. Just just peeling back the rubber with your thumb and it would break! Was like 60 year old weather beaten rubber. Tried to contact them about it and the seller had disappeared! The problem now was that I had had ground down about 2mm off the pinch weld so that rubber would fit over it as it was a bit shorter than stock. Now I have gotten some new rubber, I have to add it back again plus a few extra millimeters! So using a squashed down piece of copper pipe as a backer, I can lay down two rows of weld along the edge all the way around the window opening. Then have to grind down the welds and make it all a uniform height and thickness all the way around the window frame. The new rubber was by Metro Moulded Parts, #LP-30. https://metrommp.com/windshield-and-...dow-seallp-30/ It was part of their supersoft range and it really was! Took about five minutes by myself to get the template roped into place.
__________________
Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1505
|
|||
|
|||
Bummer about the crappy rubber. And adding back 2mm, a pain. Looks like a good result in the end though!
__________________
- Tom D |
#1506
|
||||
|
||||
Hi Marcus
Good to see that you got the rubber glass seal from Metro molded. A friend near me is a dealer for them. I really like their products. Made in the USA, Minneapolis Minnesota Their foam door weatherstrips are very close to the same as the originals on the 50’s and 60’s vehicles. Not like some other manufactures that are so firm that the doors will not even close. Steve
__________________
Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#1507
|
|||
|
|||
Nice to see you back again Marcus. Sorry about the first crappy rubber.
This build is such a fantastic inspiration to learn from. Thanx for sharing. Now I just hope to finishing my garage soon so that I’ll have a workshop to start something myself.
__________________
Pehr Norström |
#1508
|
|||
|
|||
Marcus. You reminded me of installing a window 30 years ago. Once you have the right rubber, lubricate everything with soap before mounting. The rubber will fit in there by itself. Good luck.
__________________
Jaroslav |
#1509
|
||||
|
||||
Nice job of adding the material back. Was warpage a problem?
|
#1510
|
|||
|
|||
I hate poor quality with a passion.
I have a 1959 Ghia and a large percentage of parts offer are just a bunch of junk. Thank you for the tip for bonding rubber, it will come in handy.
__________________
Gregory |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|