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  #11  
Old 08-16-2022, 09:01 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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I think you are close. Carefully smooth after out the shaping. Good luck.

The first bent edge always holds its all shape. Straighten the first edge first.
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  #12  
Old 09-11-2022, 01:00 AM
Johnny A Johnny A is offline
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Default Still trying

I've made multiple attempts since I last posted
At trying to form the outer flange first.and also using a larger piece and forming the body shape first
This has been a challenge in itself
The part I'm finding difficult is the tight corner,as I tip the flange the outside dips down and I eventually lose the the line of the flange aswell.some attempts have been close but I always lose control over the steel near the end.should I prestretch the metal along the top of the flange line ?[ATTACH]20220911_150733.jpg

20220911_150802.jpg
Here's all the attempts
20220911_151016.jpg[/ATTACH]
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  #13  
Old 09-11-2022, 02:08 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Oh Johnny. Use a bead roller or precise hammer blows to mark the bend line. There is a lot of material to shrink at this point.
If you need to do such a thing exactly, you have to take a thicker material of about 10 or 12 mm and grind the shape you need - the strength of the material into it. Clamp the sheet with this material on the shape with clamps and carefully bend it. One of the ways.
If you make the first bend, the next one won't move. The bend will hold it.
One way:https://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=15171
Another way:
Everything must be firmly clamped. When released, one side may curl. As was the case with the high edge. Here it is necessary to straighten and only then continue with other bends. In my case, there was another curve on the door that caused the bending. It was necessary to start on this side. I had the sheet clamped through washers on both sides.
There were no waves.
Take the bit of iron, grind the shape and carefully bend. You can warm it up, it will go better.

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IMG_0317 (2).jpg
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Last edited by Jaroslav; 09-11-2022 at 02:13 AM.
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  #14  
Old 09-11-2022, 04:20 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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If you don't have a bead roller, make one. You can use anything. Wheels made of skates from the garbage can, a washer for the screw, you may or may not have bearings. What matters is the result.
https://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18698

DSC07429.JPG

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  #15  
Old 09-11-2022, 04:31 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Or with steel path.
IMG_0975 (2).jpg

IMG_0977.jpg

IMG_0970 (2).jpg
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  #16  
Old 09-13-2022, 06:19 AM
Johnny A Johnny A is offline
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Thank you jaroslav
I had another go this afternoon.
I just cut the flange off from the last attempt I posted and reused the metal just for practice,then tipped a flange again.
This time I used the bead roller for a few extra passes until the flange was about 60° and started forming tucks by itself.
Then as you recommended I heated the metal and used a round steel dolly and wooden mallet and tipped the flange the rest of the way.
This is the best result I've had so far.
As I said this was only for practice so I didn't take pictures during the process.but when I repeat this again on a new peice of steel will take few more pictures.
Thanks again for the helpful advice you've given me
20220912_210041.jpg

20220913_182127.jpg

20220913_182142.jpg
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  #17  
Old 09-13-2022, 06:41 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Johnny. Great try. The place you mark the bead roller remains the same. It's a control curve. You can match everything you need to this curve. When the basic shape is matched, you can do the next steps.
Maybe it could be done the other way around, make all the shapes, mark the bend edge with a bead roller and do the bend as the last step. But you'll already have enough metal under the table and you'll know the right way. Try and think about what happened and why.


My electronic bead roller works from 4 revolutions per minute. It is very well possible to work according to the drawn line. A similar effect can be achieved with a very primitive bead roller, which I modified so that it finally works. But I supplemented it with a steering wheel. It is possible to control the rotation by hand with absolute precision. Great machine at the moment.

https://www.allmetalshaping.com/show...t=19291&page=2
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Last edited by Jaroslav; 09-13-2022 at 06:52 AM.
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  #18  
Old 10-03-2022, 05:52 AM
Johnny A Johnny A is offline
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Default Getting closer

20220925_150309.jpg
First I put the body shape in using English wheel
20220925_150328.jpg
The I put the reverse in using the stump and mallet and lifting the panel whilst hitting
20220925_153106.jpg

20220925_165243.jpg
Then I tipped the first line in beadroller
Then I tipped the second line and crushed the puckers that formed with dolly and mallet
20220925_173323.jpg
Then I shrank along inner wheel arch to regain the body line shape which had been lost in previous steps.
It turned out alright but I've ended up with too much crown in the centre of panel,you can see what I mean in last photo.
I think this was caused by the way I put the reverse in ,maybe over stretched the area?with mallet and stump.
I have started another panel and will try avoid that mistake
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Last edited by Johnny A; 10-03-2022 at 05:58 AM.
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  #19  
Old 10-03-2022, 06:54 AM
dwmh dwmh is offline
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That's looking very good. Great result.
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  #20  
Old 10-03-2022, 11:52 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Johnny. That's a great result. If you don't have the option to use a center shrink tool, you can heat this place and cool in that area with water. The panel will shrink in that place.
It looks very good. Cool boy....
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