#1
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oxy acetylene welding(first attempt)
Looking for some advice on oxy acetylene welding, finally got set up to try it.
For now I will be using a Purox w-200 with a .002 welding tip. Not the best set up but with the new head hose adapters it will at least give me the chance to get my feet wet. I know crap about this and still have not watched Davids video. So what I did was set up the flame to what I believed was a neutral flame, it had a very crisp V but the end of the flame was a little erratic. I could not get a good picture of the flame the v was very sharp but it does not show that in the picture but it does show the end of the flame and that is what i question. weld 005.jpg I tacked it up like I would normally do, as if I were tig welding.(with .040 filler rod) weld 006.jpg Then i welded the seam solid in one pass weld 011.jpg Here is the back side weld 009.jpg It seamed to have penetrated well but I believe I added to much heat by the look of the Haz
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Johnny Arial This forum is dedicated to Metal Shaping. Please stay on topic. |
#2
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Hi
that is a good first atempt ! #1 picture : the V ore split int the flame, your welding tip need cleaning, sot buld up inside the tip flame adjustment look ok trye to use mig wire insted of the 0,040 when welding sheet metal, les grinding and les heat kep on praktising
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Karl Fredrik karlfredrik@unneberg-bil.no Peter Tommasini DVD sett for sale serie 1-3 http://www.unneberg-bil.no/product/193535 serie 4-6 http://www.unneberg-bil.no/product/193536 |
#3
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Definitely looks good! Part of the reason you have a large HAZ is because you are putting more heat into the panel by using filler. If your gap is good and tight, try welding without filler and moving a bit faster. That should help with the HAZ, but as David always says, it's more important to have an even HAZ than to have a small HAZ.
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http://www.shawnmarsh.com - My metalshaping portfolio as I get started in the world of metal. Last edited by ShawnMarsh; 04-04-2012 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Spelling |
#4
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Practice running beads on a panel, no seam
Practice running beads on a panel with filler Practice running beads on a panel with a tight joint and filler Practice running beads on a panel with a tight joint and no filler Practice rinning beads on a panel with a gapped joint and with filler. Do each of these a bunch times, then do it again. each instance will show you things you will run into in the real world. You are doing good to start, its all about puddle manipulation. start slow, and add a handicap. You are doing good right out of the gate. Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#5
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Looks like a good first try Johnny. KFS is right about the tip, looks like it needs cleaning. What does the flame sound like with the torch set? If the flame sounds a little rough you need to get a larger tip. If the tip is to small it will take to long to start the puddle, and you travel to slow letting more heat soak into the panel. To get the heat you want with to small of a tip the volocity of the flame will want to blow holes, and the tip will overheat and change the flame or pop back.
When you weld with filler move your tip in a little circle keeping both panels the same temp and heating the filler rod. Once the panels start to puddle move the rod in and let the fill drop into the puddle. If the filler rod touches the panel as you are developing the puddle it will take heat away and you won't get good penetration. You learn faster if you have someone to watch. I had my Dad to watch.
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Jeff Dyce Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something. Thomas A. Edison |
#6
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Great timing! Just picked up a Smith set up and am anxious to try it.
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Brad |
#7
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Thanks guys
I have been practicing, I can get two pieces stuck together but I feel I only scratched the surface. What do you guys set your regulators? I bumped it down a little from my normal cutting levels. How about the angle of the torch? I just held it at about 15dg With the sharp tip of the flame how close do you hold it to the base metal? My non filler rod tacks are breaking as I am making more tacks and I am not sure why. Seems like as I am welding when I dip my rod they do not suck back to the last dab, unlike when I am tig welding. So the weld seems look like a bunch of round tacks chained together instead of a roll of dimes. The flame sounds smooth I believe I have the right tip me and the guy at my local weld supply did a lot of research on it(it was the hardest $80 he ever made) If you guys think of anything please post it up and i will put it to practice
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Johnny Arial This forum is dedicated to Metal Shaping. Please stay on topic. |
#8
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I cleaned the tip and that split flame went away
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Johnny Arial This forum is dedicated to Metal Shaping. Please stay on topic. |
#9
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Angle, 15 degrees or so, tip distance, close enough to melt steel (clear as mud, I know), reg settings, eh, 4-6, depending on your setup, and filler, I never go for the row of dimes look, that usually isnt good welding. Good welding is adding filler when you need to add it, either for filler, or to cool the puddle, or to make up for thinner material, etc. That comes with practice. Dont add it just because. A good weld will look smooth, and flat. When you add filler, try .023 mig wire, twisted to keep it straight. Allow the molten pool to suck it from your rod, rather than dipping it. Not much difference in application, but it may be a different way of thinking about it.
I hope this helps. Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#10
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Try weld thicker sheet or tube. You will have more time to watch what happens.
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