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  #1741  
Old 03-31-2021, 09:46 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NDM View Post
YUCK!!

....grab the title, sign it and give it to me so I can dispose of it!
Go out and wait by your mailbox.
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  #1742  
Old 03-31-2021, 01:14 PM
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Beautiful work Jack !!!!
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  #1743  
Old 04-04-2021, 10:00 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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While working on the right side window regulator, I somehow lost power to the window regulators. Both of them. I started working on some other stuff that needed finishing while trying to sort out the power problem. At the moment, I still haven't found it but I decided to focus on getting all the electrical loose ends buttoned up.


I started with grounds. The CTS harness has groups of chassis ground wires roughly every 3 feet along the length on both sides of the vehicle. I welded in threaded bungs to the floor boards for the harness ground wires, then ran 8ga wire from the bungs to the frame. I did the same thing from the main battery ground but I used a full size battery ground cable to tie in the frame to the bung on the body. A little overkill, but I don't need to worry about faulty grounds.I double checked the ground wires in the engine compartment also.

With a vehicle so heavily reliant on electronics I need to eliminate all variables. I'm not real strong with electronics. It's difficult for me to troubleshoot. I finished the wiring on the air ride system, trunk release, emergency brake, and adapted the CTS "Hood Ajar" switch to the 49 hood latch.
From this point, I knew I needed a service manual to track down the remaining issues; window regulators, reverse light switch and a couple other things. I found a download for a service manual specifically for a 2014 CTS Coupe. Get this: 8,843 pages! You read that right 8,843.
Below is a screen shot of the home page but the page numbers (Circled) aren't clear enough to read.


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Using the manual to ID the wiring at the main connectors for the headlights, I figured out how to adapt the aftermarket headlights and home made parking lamps to the original CTS wiring.

I can't eliminate anything that was in the original CTS headlight or it could create problems. An example of this would be the DRLs (daytime running lights). On the CTS, there was one mini bulb in front, and on the side of the lamp there was a small SDS card with 4 LEDs attached. I wont be using any side lighting. I ran the mini bulb down to the parking lamp housing and used the wiring for the SDS card to operate the halo lights. I had to leave the SDS card hooked up because on the back of the card, there is some circuitry that I'm not sure of. I think part of what's there might step 12Volt input to 5Volts for the LEDs, but it could also be sending information back to the BCM (body control module) regarding the status of the lighting; load, resistance, etc..

So, I'll just leave the card in the harness inside the fender. The picture below is the left side DRL halo in the headlight and the mini bulb down in the parking lamp housing.


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High beam with halo.


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Turn signal. (I had to take about a half dozen pictures before I caught it lit up)


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DRL, halo, and running lights done on both sides. Everything works, hi beam, lo beam, halos, running lights, turn signals, and flashers. (No sparks or smoke)


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 04-04-2021 at 10:14 PM.
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  #1744  
Old 04-05-2021, 05:19 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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I went through the same thing and think I was around 60 pages just to sort the door wiring out!
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  #1745  
Old 04-06-2021, 10:03 PM
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8843 pages is why I left the service industry 15 years ago.....
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  #1746  
Old 04-07-2021, 09:27 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I need to replace the original exterior door switches. The CTS had electronic touch pads rather than mechanical door handles. The originals (Pictured split open on the right) were too big to use so I need to replace them with the smaller momentary push button switches
The problem is, the original performed two separate functions. Most likely when pressed the switch activated the door latch and also activated the drop down feature for the side window.

After studying the printed circuit on the original, it was clear that the engineers wanted these two circuits to remain isolated from each other while at rest. Only to be connected when the button is pushed.
In order to get function without sacrificing form, I needed to separate the switch from the actuator.n I'll use a 16mm momentary push button mounted in the mirror stands, then a couple relays inside the door to keep the two circuits separated unless activated.


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This is what I came up with. Typically, a relay is used to convey a heavier load on the power side (+) but in this application the switching is done by connecting or disconnecting the ground (-). You can see in my crude diagram below that there is 12v+ going into the relay coil, through it, and to ground-. This activates the coil creating an electromagnet which pulls the contact across from it and completes the circuit. The 12v+ that activates the magnet never comes in contact with anything else. The wires connected to the other side are isolated and can be either positive or ground. Whatever is needed. I used two separate relays so that the two ground feeds never come in contact with each other unless the button is pushed and connects both of them to chassis ground.



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This is the new rig that will replace the original touch pad.


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Button locations on both sides. Discrete but easy access.


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Both mirrors finished and installed. The rest will be tied in inside the door.


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 04-07-2021 at 09:42 PM.
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  #1747  
Old 04-08-2021, 12:43 AM
chrisnz chrisnz is offline
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Great solution to another problem. Is locking the car on a remote?
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  #1748  
Old 04-08-2021, 06:50 AM
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Nothing has changed with the latches or locks. Lock from inside the vehicle with the buttons on the power window switch. Lock or unlock from outside with the fob.
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  #1749  
Old 04-08-2021, 03:34 PM
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Raymond posted a woody cadillac that I think is super interesting as well.
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  #1750  
Old 04-08-2021, 04:30 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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This one?

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