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  #1  
Old 07-06-2014, 03:30 AM
Zzz zed Zzz zed is offline
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Default Shrinker stretcher. Deep throat v shallow throat?

Hey guys I want to buy a shrinker stretcher
Is the deap throat the way to go? Or dost I'll need the shallow throat?
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:07 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zzz zed View Post
Hey guys I want to buy a shrinker stretcher
Is the deap throat the way to go? Or dost I'll need the shallow throat?

Mick ... you can shrink by hand or you can buy a small shrinker and stretcher, large or small it all depends on the type of job you are doing
Peter
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Old 07-06-2014, 03:25 PM
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Mick I have only the shallow S/S set and they are good for shallow work.

You never know how deep a job will require. Usually about 1/4" deeper than the deep machine will do. Like Peter said learn to do it by hand tools. Tucking forks work great and are fast.

Jere
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Old 07-06-2014, 03:49 PM
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Frank.de.Kleuver Frank.de.Kleuver is offline
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In a crowned panel you can shrink of the rim by hitting in the middle of a rounded dolly underneath that has a larger radius then the panel or use a donut dolly and a high radiused bossing mallet. Search on donut dolly and you'll find it.

How higher the crown how more effective it is.

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Old 07-06-2014, 04:50 PM
Zzz zed Zzz zed is offline
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Thanx guys. I already know how to shrink by hand. I have all the hand tools such as tuck shrinker, wood stump, ect ect.
I figure one of these machines would make my job faster and easier. And keep my customers cost down.
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:53 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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I got the small throat hand shrinker to start with, from MMA.
Then an Eckold handwank machine with the beak jaws that goes about 6 inches.
Then I got a 6inch kicker for thicker stuff.
Later on I had to have the 12inch power model that does .090" steel.
But so far, I have stopped at the 18inch 18 ton model that I built out of need to do some deep reverses.
Funny thing though, with 9 different shrinking machines in my shop I use my old Air Power Hammer the most, by far. I guess because I will work on almost anything from a P40 to a GT40 to a 40 Ford, I can set the thing up and get the work done faster - and I have timed it.

Oh - look at the time! Gotta run!
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:42 PM
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I saw Wray take 1/2" x 16 gauge strips and form them into curved parts to be used as a buck for a gas tank.
I can't imagine how this could be done with tucks, stump or hand tools?
I would like to learn these techniques so I don't have to buy a shrinker/stretcher.
Anyone have a link to a thread on this?
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:51 PM
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If you're just trying to make profile gauges (like Wray) you can simply stretch the opposite edge that Wray shrunk. You can stretch with a hammer and dolly that you most likely already have.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:11 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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To answer your question Mick.
I had a shallow throat, but got rid of those after buying a deep throats, never looked back!, if you don't have one already one, invest in the deep throat.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:28 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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It's down to how much you want to spend. I managed for years with just the hand appropriated shallow throat machines, I recently bought a Lazze style Chinese machine which is foot opperated, This is a very nice machine, I don't shrink far into panels because it is not necessary, but the foot machine is easier work. I have never had an echold and for most the cost would be prohibitive.

As Richard said it is possible to make those strips you mention by hand, sometimes it is handy to know this technique when working on a panel that can't be put in a machine.

David
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