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  #1661  
Old 01-04-2021, 04:45 PM
norson norson is offline
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When I was trying (and failing) to find door window frames for my '31 Cabriolet, I tried to figure out how to make them. I look at the aluminum, but rejected it early on. The Model A was chromed steel and survived many years in the elements before any problems. I tried 1/2 x 1 inch tubing of varied wall thicknesses (.049 - .065 - .084). The OD was too large so I crushed it between rollers. It created a curled effect, but I was on the right track. Then I found the parts I needed at a swap meet. If I was doing it again I would:

--try the tubing again and slice off one side of tube, insert steel strap of the right thickness and press the tube between rollers to get the right dimensions for glass thickness and channel width.

--Go to a sheet metal shop and have them form a channel in a press brake out of crs or stainless.
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Last edited by norson; 01-18-2021 at 10:25 PM.
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  #1662  
Old 01-18-2021, 09:00 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I managed to get the left side glass operating properly so I'm moving on to the right side. I didn't have much time to cover this while doing the left side. I was busy trying to figure out how to stuff a fairly complex apparatus into a door that it didn't belong in.

Above is a 3 axis diagram that helps visualize what needs to be considered. X axis represents left and right, Y axis is up and down, and Z axis is fore and aft.
Even though the tracks are slanted forward along the door post run channel in the Y axis, they have to be parallel so the window doesn't bind as it moves up and down.
Next, each of the tracks need to be tilted left and right in the X axis the exact same amount to follow the run channel and not twist the glass as it moves up and down.
And all this needs to be done working inside the door shell... Working blind. It was frustrating at times because if I miss by just a small amount, I have to do some fabricating to get it right. The perches at the bottom would need to be taller or shorter, or the upper mounting holes welded up and redrilled in a new location. I had to walk away a few times.

Below is the layout for the right side. This side should go much smoother since I figured out the lower perches. These are the final version templates for the right side lower perches, the perches in 18ga steel, and regulator. The glass template is from the left side. I'm about to find out how well I made the roof. If the first glass template works on both sides, all is good. If not..


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I was able to find a new windshield in green EZ Eye tint with no shade, so the roof upholstery will be black. I would only have used the dark cranberry upholstery if I could find a clear windshield, so black it is.


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I started cutting this windshield the same way I did the mock up windshield. This blue tape is similar to plastic packing tape. I think I used masking tape last time and remember having problems with the water loosening up the tape. This tape stays down.



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Near the end of this cut I noticed that it was going slower than usual. The bit was wearing down. It was requiring more pressure to cut so I stopped.
When you're cutting glass like this there are two enemies working against you; shock and temperature


SHOCK I'm using a new rotozip tool. There's NO looseness in the bearings. I can push the bit by hand in any direction and there is no play at all. Unlike air driven die grinders, this is a precision tool. If for any reason, the bit starts rattling while cutting, it will shoot a crack across the glass and it's over. $550 in the dumpster.


TEMPERATURE Obviously there is friction involved while cutting and it is all focused in one small spot. That's what the water flooding is for. Glass has very little, or no elasticity at all. When you focus heat in a very small spot, the heated spot tries to expand. With metals, the cooler surrounding material is pushed away by this expansion. With glass that can't happen. The result is a fracture.


This is why I stopped cutting. It was taking more pressure to make the cut than it should. (generating more heat). I ordered a new bit so I'll finish the other side when that gets here.


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 01-18-2021 at 09:06 PM.
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  #1663  
Old 01-19-2021, 06:11 AM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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You have nerves of steel Jack.
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  #1664  
Old 01-19-2021, 08:55 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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You have nerves of steel Jack.
Not really. I'm sweating.
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  #1665  
Old 01-19-2021, 10:11 AM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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Not really. I'm sweating.

LOL...hang in there then.
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  #1666  
Old 01-19-2021, 11:32 AM
metaldahlberg88 metaldahlberg88 is offline
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I'm nervous just reading about it. haha
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  #1667  
Old 01-19-2021, 12:56 PM
daveb daveb is offline
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Iím not sure if I missed it somewhere, but what bit did you use to cut the glass ?
Thanks for posting the work you do !!
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  #1668  
Old 01-19-2021, 03:52 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I’m not sure if I missed it somewhere, but what bit did you use to cut the glass ?
Thanks for posting the work you do !!
I used a 40 grit diamond bit. 1/4" shank 1/8" cutting diameter. See post #920 on page 75.
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Last edited by Jack 1957; 01-19-2021 at 04:00 PM.
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  #1669  
Old 01-19-2021, 04:22 PM
SATAUS SATAUS is offline
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Nice job Jack and thanks for the information.
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  #1670  
Old 01-21-2021, 07:07 PM
daveb daveb is offline
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I used a 40 grit diamond bit. 1/4" shank 1/8" cutting diameter. See post #920 on page 75.
Thanks Jack!
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