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  #21  
Old 03-11-2014, 04:12 AM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z5Roadster View Post
Another problem may be that I have the torch too close, tomorrow I will run some test pieces as your previous post.

I am trying to feed filler to the front of the puddle (furthest from the torch) but the old hands tend to be a little shaky.
I like to keep the cone of the flame about 1mm above the puddle.

Place the filler rod into the middle of the puddle and push down gently; you will feel when the rod melts as the rod sinks and then you can advance the flame and rod a bit further on,

Cheers Charlie
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  #22  
Old 03-11-2014, 04:31 PM
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Here is todays attempt to get penetration but still not good.
Almost blow hole through half way along , fusion only, length of
weld approx 3"

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Back of first run

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Second attempt lower weld, had to add a little filler in the middle

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Lower weld back view.

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I would guess I have the tip of the cone .06/.08" from the weld pool.

Need to get some more sheet without to Zintec deposite.
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  #23  
Old 03-11-2014, 05:21 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Looks good Tom!
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  #24  
Old 03-11-2014, 05:42 PM
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Thanks Charlie, that encouraging, I'll get David's dvd out tomorrow, it's a while since I've watched it.
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  #25  
Old 03-12-2014, 05:55 PM
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Z5Roadster Z5Roadster is offline
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Reference my post above, the answer I was looking for was in David's DVD, I looked at it over breakfast and wow, after spending part of 3 days trying to get penetration 3/4 minutes into the welding section out pop the answers. The DVD was purchased probably 2 years ago, what a godsend, got to say I'm impressed and worth every penny. Thanks David.

Here we go again, first side, we are looking at the second weld down, this is fusion after tacking the ends first.

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Back side, again second down.

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I'm happy with that for only a few hrs of practice and hopefully put me in front when I move to aluminium, not for a while though. (boss says I've got to finish this Plymouth first)

Spent most of the day fitting-up and very little time tacking.

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Have now got to loose fit the rear fenders and the gas tank valance to make sure nothing fouls and lines up before going forward.

Thanks for looking.
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  #26  
Old 04-30-2014, 04:19 PM
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Been a while but a quick update. still a fair bit of planishing to do.

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Now a new challenge, I am unable to locate a RHD toe board, this is a LHD which I have flipped to give me the correct orientation.

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Question is should I stretch the area of the swagged depressions to reduce distortion before using my Wheel, and if I use a full radius lower with a piece of 3/8" ply slotted to accept the swages, would that give a successful result.
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Last edited by Z5Roadster; 04-30-2014 at 04:24 PM. Reason: more info added
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  #27  
Old 05-22-2014, 04:54 PM
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This is what I finished up with.

I think it would have been better to increase the depth of the swage uniformly rather that to put the 4 vertical ones in first, I found that it took a lot of persuasion to get the intersection to form, big hammer sorted it.

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  #28  
Old 05-22-2014, 05:04 PM
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Nice piece of work there Tom.
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  #29  
Old 05-22-2014, 05:36 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Top work Tom!

Any shots of how you wheeled it?

Cheers C
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  #30  
Old 05-23-2014, 04:18 PM
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Thanks Pugsy and Charlie

I didn't take any photos while making the panel but I can string the process together, the sheet is 16swg or 1.5 mm galvanised steel. first off I made a 3/8" ply former, clamped the sheet to it and started to get the form going. In error I tackled each short swage separately but when I came to put the long depression I found that between the short legs was easy but the intersections wouldn't form at all. My feelings are that all swages should have been taken to depth together.

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It was necessary to back-up the ply with a thicker piece of wood otherwise the top wheel would dig into ply and also fall into the slots at the intersections in the former. Remember you are looking at the ply upside down to the way it was wheeled.

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The open slots were produced by drilling a 1/2" then placing a suitable piece of tube in the vice and using a ball-peen hammer as a punch hammer it into the centre of the tube below. Which just leaves the sides to be dressed after slitting through the middle of the slot. The raw edges can be trimmed off afterwards to give an acceptable finish.

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