#11
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David 20t should be enough. If it is not enough, it is necessary to release the tool. Make more clearance in complicated places, but creativity has no limits. You can print stones or technical material such as screws, keys and the like if you want to make themed clocks and so on. Signs, reliefs, leaves, chains... you will show what you've done ?
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Jaroslav |
#12
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Never mind. Answer was posted above! I will definitely update with my results.
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David |
#13
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I did something like this once for a 1/8" deep compass rose, where I carved the negative into masonite using a v-chisel then made a punch by pressing hot glue applied to another piece of masonite into the carving. I wet the first piece (the negative) so the hot glue would not stick to it. Separated them. The negative and positive had to be registered ahead of time for re-alignment, and the copper was thin like you're using and annealed, then pressed them all together in a vise.
Another time I used masonite dies to press a recessed opening for a copper sink drain. I cut a circle out of masonite with a holesaw, used the centering pilot hole to register the copper and masonite dies then worked around the circle with a heavy deadblow hammer. The entire operation did not need to be made in one pressing since everything was registered. I did a little at a time and snuck up on it. Your clock numerals could be made one at a time with individual indexing punches pressed into a die with all the negatives carved in. You might have indexing holes at center, then every 30 degrees out beyond the edge of your finished part dimension. Those you would eventually be trimmed off. Last edited by mark g; 12-28-2022 at 05:27 PM. |
#14
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Great info Mark! I am finding that there are many ways of creating dies. I was thinking of using my laser machine to engrave a negative die, but did not consider making a matching die. The hot glue trick sounds like a possible method. Looking forward to purchasing a press so I can start experimenting. Thanks!
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David |
#15
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I watched a video yesterday on YouTube where guy 3d printed dies to emboss steel sheet. He used a 20T press. Maybe his information is helpful.
https://grindhousepe.com/blogs/3d-pr...ss-dies-part-1
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Larry |
#16
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male/female hard dies, brass, 5T bottle jack press
Hubcap reproduction, brass, set of 6 for the car (1987)
Siata 208V. Showing original cap, and repro #7 P1070681 copy 2.jpg P1070682 copy.jpg quickie dies = male+female, with thin .125 aluminum bolsters - did not have preferred .250 on hand. P1070683 copy.jpg P1070684 copy.jpg Cracks in male (pusher) happened years later, workshop participants dropping on floor, pushing on flat material, hard material. P1070685 copy.jpg Preferred sort of material (steel compound better), although CIBA-Geigy may have equal by now? I first used this die material when I began doing "ancient auto resto" - 1913 Stutz Bearcat ... - 1912 Mercer Raceabout ... engine repairs to get original 90MPH performance and appearance. (1970) Caps of .032 yellow brass, spun, annealed in centers only, pressed w/logo dies, attached to copper-plated steel support rings, flanged over, chrome plated, and spring snap rings installed. Appearance and function= new original "crisp lettering" ... only softening a bit on caps #5,6,7. Do not like urethanes for this....Not Crisp to my satisfaction. (I have tried many/most ideas/concepts mentioned previously in this thread.) .032 soft copper flats would be much easier, same tonnage. Die registry takes some prep. Use steel compound for longer die life. Watch/compensate for ram wobble. Use press-die lube of 50% 90wt gear oil + Ivory soap flakes. (Letters are available in many varieties and in sets - glue-on - from art/craft supply shops (Michael's?). Devcon comes with release agent which can be brushed on. After Devcon is mixed, take a little ball and wrap in cello or foil and keep in your pocket, checking for hardness over passing hours. As it is setting up you can feel stiffness and at the right time, lift the half-die off the letters. Let the half set hard and use it to mold the letter-proud half. Finesse technique for metal clearance = primer coats then brush on release agent, and mold over/into. ) Write if you get work. -end-
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 12-29-2022 at 06:49 PM. |
#17
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Quote:
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David |
#18
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Quote:
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David |
#19
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David, if the other side of the tool is only free space in the place of the numbers - I mean only the outline of the number, not the exact imprint, the sheet will be stamped according to one side of the tool (raised) and the result will be sharper and smoother.
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Jaroslav |
#20
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nobody could know that w/o experimentation!-sharp!
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Pat |
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