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  #11  
Old 12-08-2020, 04:23 PM
234Herk 234Herk is offline
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I am restoring / modifying a 69' Vert Ghia. I did mine with a bead roller and finished it off the rest of the tuck with a hammer and homemade dolly. Since I am in the process of widening all four fenders i figured I needed to get familiar with it. Worked out fairly well, just practiced on a few pieces until I was satisfied. I'll practice more when the time comes for the final roll.
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  #12  
Old 12-08-2020, 06:39 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abarthdave View Post
Here are some photos off the web somewhere , showing a large fender edge bead + vise grip tools ,

Maybe that will give you some ideas

Attachment 58343

Attachment 58344

Attachment 58345
Interesting tooling. I like it.
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  #13  
Old 12-09-2020, 06:13 AM
Ron Naida Ron Naida is offline
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If you need a hollow wire edge why couldn't you roll the pocket around
a wire. Do not pinch it completely tight. Then take a slide hammer like they make for dowel pin pullers to pull the wire out.
If you had a helper you could assist with an air hammer on one end while the other pulls the opposite end.


Don't put the wire in in one piece, use sections to make it easier to pull out.


Pullmax made dies for false wire edges but I have never used them
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Old 12-09-2020, 08:05 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Naida View Post
If you need a hollow wire edge why couldn't you roll the pocket around
a wire. Do not pinch it completely tight. Then take a slide hammer like they make for dowel pin pullers to pull the wire out.
If you had a helper you could assist with an air hammer on one end while the other pulls the opposite end.


Don't put the wire in in one piece, use sections to make it easier to pull out.


Pullmax made dies for false wire edges but I have never used them
This is how I would it. Doing a false wire edge by hand works best for me when using a piece of ss wire as the mandrel. Just work in short sections so you can easily remove the mandrel. As Kent suggests, attaching a handle tangentially to your mandrel could allow a very consistent gap- just wrap the edge until it meets the properly dimensioned handle.
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