#11
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That does look great! Taking time to weld is the key to avoid too much distortion 👍
Antoine
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Antoine Puygranier Resurrecting a 60 ghia: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18852 Fixing a 914: https://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=20624 |
#12
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Since the door is longer it gets thinner so a section was taken out.
Then the infill 7" piece fitted between the original skins. I thought I was butt welding at an area without much shape, but spent a lot of time with hammer and dolly and the shrinking disc to get to here. I failed to give myself decent access to the inside for the hand work.
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Eugene |
#13
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The passenger side was the worst damage. I used the hinge locater again and metalworked the crease on the right. It was pretty well pitted, but I probably could have gotten by with a single vertical joint between the two original skins if I had thought that far ahead.
I sectioned the rear corner and will see if I can shape the rear half of the skin from new material to give an acceptable match tomorrow.
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Eugene |
#14
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I shaped a skin patch to complete the passenger side and then removed the old remaining section. It was too wide for my slip rolls, so I bent it over an old rim.
With the hinge bolt locator in place I scribed and trimmed. I worked slower on this weld and ended up with less distortion.
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Eugene |
#15
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Great progress, thanks for sharing!
Antoine
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Antoine Puygranier Resurrecting a 60 ghia: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18852 Fixing a 914: https://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=20624 |
#16
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1950 Austin Devon
Any details on the "Bug"?
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John S. E _________________________________________________ Torque is nothing, unless you can get it to the road. |
#17
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John, it was a Craigslist find I picked up in a weak moment because it is a 1962 so smog exempt here. It was a California car, but had the typical rusted floor pans. I replaced them and the driverside A post and found a 1972 1500 engine to power it.
Then I found the Austin.
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Eugene |
#18
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I hung the Dorset doors and the one with the most damage came out the best. Rookie mistake. I should have cut the B post out and tacked the door together in place. Anyway I had to cut the driverside door apart and change some dimensions. Then I found that there is so much damage in the rocker that needs to be replaced where the new B post position will be that I spent the day mounting the body on the rotisserie.
.
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Eugene |
#19
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I see I have been almost as long as Richard for a progress post, so I'll throw something up. I haven't been able to get the rebuilt drivers door to the opening so I left it and switched to the passenger door. The rocker panel was rusted badly so I made some templates so I check the shape after cutting the bad sections out.
Then started on the "B" post. This was matching fairly well, but when I added the door jamb, my gaps went all screwy and I will probably have to make another one.
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Eugene |
#20
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I made another "B" post. The slight jog at the belt line makes all the difference in the door gap.
After tipping the flange it twisted, but straightens up with the shrinker/stretcher. In place ready to scribe the jamb for cutting and welding. I cut out the "C" post and trimmed the lower rear door skin for a test fit. The upper of the door skin window is a square, so I will have to stretch it in the corner and curve it slightly to match the drip rail. -
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Eugene Last edited by Reno; 03-04-2021 at 10:49 PM. |
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