#11
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Isn't it also widening the contact point on the lower anvil in relation to where it is contacting the bottom side of the sheet?
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#12
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When you think about it, the sheet, sure "wraps" tighter around the anvil.
So I would think , it does...
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Janne Jarvinen --------- JJ ---------- |
#13
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Quote:
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Bill Longyard Winston-Salem, NC |
#14
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Quote:
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Bill Longyard Winston-Salem, NC |
#15
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That would be interesting stuff Bill.
In the near future I also have to wheel a hoot and boot for my Cobra build so I'm happy with all informatie I can get. Geoff instructs you that the sides are where the shape is. Pulling down puts more pressure in icw bending the panel. Care should be taken not to frustrate the hell out of the panel so you don't need a ton of washovers to relax the panel again. It would be hard IMHO to get a mirror finish. Not that a mirror finish is that important but it will demonstrate that the craftsman did creep up to the shape and that will take some time. I'm amazed how fast he made this panel. I always try to curve or bend the sides of a panel towards the final arrangement as much as possible without fighting it. Some shapes can demand for stronger action like using the curling effect to get the panel to better match to the anvil. IMHO things like 'braking the grean', prebending the panel, pre shrinking the edges, keeping the side to the desired form are all to pursuade the panel to move better or faster to the desired shape. Or to keep it from flopping to the wrong side and make larger panels a bit handlable/stiffer. In the booklet 'the key to metal bumping' they show a wire being bend over the point it won't completely come back from. If you bend the line just before this point just a little bit has to be added to bend it permenantly. The same with this trying to fold it technique. The panel is persuaded into the desired shape and then the wheel passes over this area and it will be more effective this way. I ones stoot in front of 6 Ace Bristols on a row on the Essen Classica motorshow. And the hoods were al curved differently So the main lesson to be learned here is never to park your car next to the same one if they are pre 1965 Just my 2 cents. Just my view on this matter but I can be wrong. I still haven't made this hood myself. Greetings, Frank
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Frank de Kleuver |
#16
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Bill did you see the start of the process and if he started adding shape by shrinking all four corners?
Some of the reflections look like perhaps a kick shrinker was used to "pinch" in the corners first. Thanks for posting
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Kirk |
#17
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Is it possible that Mark Gerish could be asked to provide some more information? Seems he might have the best answer.
Or how about Shane at Baleigh? they seem to have a strong connection.
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Richard K |
#18
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Quote:
No, he didn't use a kick shrinker to start. In fact, he didn't use a shrinker at all on the hood.
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Bill Longyard Winston-Salem, NC |
#19
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You can contact Mark at: www.aametalshaping.com . He's very helpful with information.
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Bill Longyard Winston-Salem, NC |
#20
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I was just wondering about how much "more" area pressed between the anvils is affected when pushing the panel inwards from the sides. Wont a lower anvil with slightly more curvature act the same?
It also seems that by pushing the panel in like that makes for unstable wheeling conditions which resulted in the skewed potato chip look. Once the 'frame' has been cut off, how much does the inner panel relaxes and become flatter or does it keeps its shape exactly?
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Cobus |
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