#1
|
||||
|
||||
A Hard Buck -- The Hard Way**
This thread was originally posted on the old site. The original thread with photos can be found here:
http://allmetalshaping.forumsdot.com....php?f=15&t=67 Please make all new posts for this thread on the new site...that is HERE. We will be working to get the photos moved over. Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:56 pm Kerry Pinkerton Quote:
I agree the distance between stations is pretty big Lewis but that should be all I need to get things to the same arrangement. Between each station is a fair curve. I couldn't do a bondo buck because I had to reverse it... _________________ Kerry Pinkerton http://wheelingmachines.com Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:54 pm Lewis Gillies Kerry, I agree with you on the distance between stations. I see no problem there. What I was trying to address were the gaps between the edges of the stations and the fender. In your situation I don't see that as a problem ether. I simply wanted to illustrate that if someone found themselves in a similar predicament, there was a way to make Very accurate profiles . It was very late, or early lol when I wrote that. I guess I could have been more concise in the way i approached the subject. P.S. Kerry, I'm guessing that your first fender has not yet been metal finished, In which case tight fitting profiles would/could cause real problems in making a second none m/finished fender fit the buck. At your meet this year I wanted SO badly (as my contribution) to jump in and metal finish what time would allow. Truth is I just wasn't well enough at the time. Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:00 pm Kerry Pinkerton Ok, I was wrong ...partially anyway. Hard bucks are QUITE valuable. My hand is about .85 now and I'm just dealing with it. Yesterday I tried to fit the previously welded subpanels to the buck and they were not having any of it. There is so much shape and the reverses in the panel make it incredibly stiff and just won't change arrangement. After fighting and thinking evil thoughts for a while I cut them apart at the welds and started over. Really, REALLY helpful to be able to fit the panels to the buck and weld directly on it. Bucked1.jpg If you're really sharp eyed, you might see a small crack between the panels...Because I had already trimmed them, they don't fit together and I'll have to make a small panel, probably 2" wide to blend the two panels. And as I started putting the adjacent panels in place, I was able to manipulate them into arrangement easily: Bucked2.jpg Bucked3.jpg I'll probably NEVER try to build mirror image panels without a hard buck again. I still want my flexible shape patterns to tell me WHAT to do and WHERE to do it but as for welding everything together, the hard buck is the way to go imo. _________________ Kerry Pinkerton http://wheelingmachines.com Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:01 pm abarthdave What do you use to cut the wood ? and what to sand it to get it closer to size ? I know a bandsaw would be best , but I do not have one , but will a bench mount jig saw also work even if its a little slower ? thanks for the info Dave Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:30 pm Kerry Pinkerton Dave, I cut most everything with a Dewalt saber saw. Some of the smaller sections were done on the bandsaw... a little quicker but not much. A belt sander softens the edges but I didn't worry about it unless it was too jagged for comfort. Five or 7 ply plywood would be better but this works for what I needed it to do. That is, provide an arrangement to assemble the sub panels into the big fender. As far as how close it is...give or take a 1/16 or so... closer than I or anyone else will ever be able to see. _________________ Kerry Pinkerton http://wheelingmachines.com Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:54 pm Overkill I built a form for building the inner structure of a teardrop trailer. Did it in couple steps: - got the elipse shape I liked from the web and scaled it for my trailer, - took pic, burned it to a DVD, then stuck it in a friends projection TV, - bought king sized U Haul mattress box, taped it to garage door, projected image onto it at night, - used sharpie along with flexible yard sticks to get the shape perfect. - Transferred the shape to glued up MDF (mind you this thing is 5'x12' with constantly changing radii), - cut MDF with jig saw - near the line, then - used 12" disc sander to get it down to the line. Worked real well. Turned out parts within a 1/16". We bent .065" round and square tubing over it - which serves as the inner frame on my teardrop. I also had cut outs for the vertical and horizontal bars that went in. Ok, so all this to answer Dave's question. Jig saw to get close, sander to finish up. If you don't have a band saw - you can take the jig saw, cut a grove with it into a piece of plywood. Mount the jig saw to the plywood with some screws, and then turn the whole thing upside down. The blade will be sticking up. To cut a constant curve, just stick a screw at the center, and rotate the piece through the blade. John Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 1:56 pm Kerry Pinkerton This was the easiest one yet. Fit perfectly without any serious work at all. Took about an hour to weld it in. Bucked4.jpg I'll clean up the back side of the weld and grind when I get it off the buck.
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Member responses
Kerry Pinkerton Post subject: Re: Buck the hard way
Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:56 pm Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:38 pm Posts: 247 Location: Harvest, Al Lewis Gillies wrote: Hi Kerry, Your photos seem to show some pretty big gaps between the fender and the stations on your buck. I'm thinking that a good way to improve on the fit would be to use a bead of the cut and knead epoxee. ... I agree the distance between stations is pretty big Lewis but that should be all I need to get things to the same arrangement. Between each station is a fair curve. I couldn't do a bondo buck because I had to reverse it... _________________ Kerry Pinkerton http://wheelingmachines.com Lewis Gillies Post subject: Re: Buck the hard way Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:54 pm Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 11:28 pm Posts: 6 Kerry, I agree with you on the distance between stations. I see no problem there. What I was trying to address were the gaps between the edges of the stations and the fender. In your situation I don't see that as a problem ether. I simply wanted to illustrate that if someone found themselves in a similar predicament, there was a way to make Very accurate profiles . It was very late, or early lol when I wrote that. I guess I could have been more concise in the way i approached the subject. P.S. Kerry, I'm guessing that your first fender has not yet been metal finished, In which case tight fitting profiles would/could cause real problems in making a second none m/finished fender fit the buck. At your meet this year I wanted SO badly (as my contribution) to jump in and metal finish what time would allow. Truth is I just wasn't well enough at the time. Kerry Pinkerton Post subject: Re: Buck the hard way Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:00 pm Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:38 pm Posts: 247 Location: Harvest, Al Ok, I was wrong ...partially anyway. Hard bucks are QUITE valuable. My hand is about .85 now and I'm just dealing with it. Yesterday I tried to fit the previously welded subpanels to the buck and they were not having any of it. There is so much shape and the reverses in the panel make it incredibly stiff and just won't change arrangement. After fighting and thinking evil thoughts for a while I cut them apart at the welds and started over. Really, REALLY helpful to be able to fit the panels to the buck and weld directly on it. Bucked1.jpg If you're really sharp eyed, you might see a small crack between the panels...Because I had already trimmed them, they don't fit together and I'll have to make a small panel, probably 2" wide to blend the two panels. And as I started putting the adjacent panels in place, I was able to manipulate them into arrangement easily: Bucked2.jpg Bucked3.jpg I'll probably NEVER try to build mirror image panels without a hard buck again. I still want my flexible shape patterns to tell me WHAT to do and WHERE to do it but as for welding everything together, the hard buck is the way to go imo. _________________ Kerry Pinkerton http://wheelingmachines.com abarthdave Post subject: Re: Buck the hard way Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:01 pm Joined: Sun Apr 05, 2009 10:07 am Posts: 11 What do you use to cut the wood ? and what to sand it to get it closer to size ? I know a bandsaw would be best , but I do not have one , but will a bench mount jig saw also work even if its a little slower ? thanks for the info Dave Kerry Pinkerton Post subject: Re: Buck the hard way Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:30 pm Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:38 pm Posts: 247 Location: Harvest, Al Dave, I cut most everything with a Dewalt saber saw. Some of the smaller sections were done on the bandsaw... a little quicker but not much. A belt sander softens the edges but I didn't worry about it unless it was too jagged for comfort. Five or 7 ply plywood would be better but this works for what I needed it to do. That is, provide an arrangement to assemble the sub panels into the big fender. As far as how close it is...give or take a 1/16 or so... closer than I or anyone else will ever be able to see. _________________ Kerry Pinkerton http://wheelingmachines.com Overkill Post subject: Re: Buck the hard way Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:54 pm Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:48 pm Posts: 34 I built a form for building the inner structure of a teardrop trailer. Did it in couple steps: - got the elipse shape I liked from the web and scaled it for my trailer, - took pic, burned it to a DVD, then stuck it in a friends projection TV, - bought king sized U Haul mattress box, taped it to garage door, projected image onto it at night, - used sharpie along with flexible yard sticks to get the shape perfect. - Transferred the shape to glued up MDF (mind you this thing is 5'x12' with constantly changing radii), - cut MDF with jig saw - near the line, then - used 12" disc sander to get it down to the line. Worked real well. Turned out parts within a 1/16". We bent .065" round and square tubing over it - which serves as the inner frame on my teardrop. I also had cut outs for the vertical and horizontal bars that went in. Ok, so all this to answer Dave's question. Jig saw to get close, sander to finish up. If you don't have a band saw - you can take the jig saw, cut a grove with it into a piece of plywood. Mount the jig saw to the plywood with some screws, and then turn the whole thing upside down. The blade will be sticking up. To cut a constant curve, just stick a screw at the center, and rotate the piece through the blade. John Kerry Pinkerton Post subject: Re: Buck the hard way Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 1:56 pm Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:38 pm Posts: 247 Location: Harvest, Al This was the easiest one yet. Fit perfectly without any serious work at all. Took about an hour to weld it in. Bucked4.jpg I'll clean up the back side of the weld and grind when I get it off the buck.
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|