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  #221  
Old 01-07-2016, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
....there's no magic in this. It's just about learning what can be done. You don't need Ridler skills and huge money to get good results. Just develop your skills, keep an open mind, and be patient.

Yep. Well said. This is exactly why we keep this site open and free.

You're doing good work here Jack!
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  #222  
Old 01-07-2016, 06:14 AM
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Nice stuff Jack.

Thanks for the updates.
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my project:
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=154
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  #223  
Old 01-07-2016, 08:32 PM
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[QUOTE=Frank.de.Kleuver;121100]Very impressive work. How did you get the alignment of that hole with the pipe spot on?



The latches have through holes. I used a Sharpy from underneath through the hole then measured side to side to make sure both sides were the same
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  #224  
Old 01-07-2016, 08:36 PM
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I got the deck skin all welded up.

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Then I capped off the door jamb area and started cleaning up the welds.

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  #225  
Old 01-08-2016, 12:30 PM
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Thanks for sharing all the detailed methods your using not just the big picture! I'm getting skooled and learning alot!...and it looks great!!

I'm going to the Baileigh class to get some more skool'n!! Lol. http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showt...ighlight=class

Greg
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  #226  
Old 01-14-2016, 07:17 PM
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I finished capping off the right door jamb and spent some time cleaning up some welds.

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  #227  
Old 01-14-2016, 10:40 PM
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I'm moving on to the rear deck side panels. I tack the template paper down near the middle of the panel where there is the most shape (The radiused body line) so the outer parts of the paper hang loose. This will help you determine where to shrink or stretch.
I used the same straight edge that I used when I made the bodyline on the buck.

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Then, I mark the location of the straight edge as close as possible and smooth it out with some 1" tape. There will be two radiused body lines that will run along either side of the tape to match the rest of the deck.

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Next trace a line parallel to the upper body line to locate the edge where the deck will meet the deck lid.

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  #228  
Old 01-14-2016, 11:04 PM
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Next, mark the outer edge and add another piece of 1" tape to represent the flange that will be welded to the inner quarter. So, the tape on the left is the flange that will be tipped down and welded to the gutter along the side of the deck lid. The middle tape is the area between the two body lines, and the tape on the right is the flange that goes to the inner quarter.

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Here's the trimmed and finished template. Notice that the center tape line that I laid out with the straight edge is actually curved! How?... This body line starts out nearly vertical at the front and ends up nearly horizontal at the back. As it heads back the straight edge can be twisted through its length and curved to flow along the buck.
If you remember, I was getting tripped up with this when I was cutting up the stations back here. I knew what I wanted to accomplish but couldn't figure it out until I pulled the straight edge across them.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 01-15-2016 at 12:16 AM.
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  #229  
Old 01-16-2016, 10:35 PM
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This is the area I'll start with. This is the left rear side panel.I want to make a test panel to see if I can make this in one piece. I've made many similar panels over the years and almost always do them in two pieces. I would separate a piece like this at the upper radius and make the top and inner flange then the lower half in a second piece. But if you keep doing the same thing over and over, you only get better at doing that. You don't advance so with that in mind, I want to attempt this panel in one piece.

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I used a scrap of aluminum since it's quicker and easier to shape. The numbers on the panel are the order in which they were worked (or mauled depending on who you ask) After a light wheeling to raise a little crown I started with the polyurethane wheel and did the lower and upper radiused body lines. Both areas marked "3" needed to be stretched on the wheel again. When I wheeled the body lines it put a bow in the opposite direction and dished the panel. I needed to manipulate the panel on the wheel to regain the crown and although it doesn't show in the picture, I put a couple buckles in while doing that. I don't like bucking the wheel. It seems to me that it means you're doing something wrong, or at least, there might be a better way.
Anyway, moving on to step 4, tipping the flanges

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  #230  
Old 01-16-2016, 10:41 PM
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So next I marked a couple typical flanges and tipped them to about 90 degrees.

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As expected, the outboard flange dished the adjacent panel and the inboard flange bowed the adjacent panel upward.

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